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..shades of "car talk". :-)by grant - Main Forum
..i can only conclude that its one small part weak battery and one large part "something was left on or shorted". Might have even been a loose accessory wire or a door not fully closed, but it seems mostly fine. The draw is large enough that left >> week it might not start, which is not ideal, but also manageable. No one ever commented on the 1400 ohm resistance looking back through theby grant - Main Forum
I have a similar chronic oil problem on my track car. It existed with the old (very worn) motor, and continues with the newly rebuilt one. runs great, but uses a constant stream of oil - 1 qt/1k on the road and 3/8 qt/track day (2+ hours, WOT) on the track. I cant prove much, but i suspect the AOS is overwhelmed. The question on your friend's car is "what changed?". Either a) it just got old aby grant - Main Forum
Once removed form the car, it charged to "mostly done", but never completed. The battery may simply be old and no longer capable of taking what CTEK calls a full charge. De-sulfating appeared to be on the 4 day to completion plan, so I quit. One more weird observation. While it was in the de-sulfating mode, battery in car, i put a DMM across the terminals to just check the DC voltage. What i sby grant - Main Forum
Hello, I had my track car just sitting on ramps so I could -- at my leisure -- go over a bunch of little things. Plan is to head to track (NJMP) tomorrow afternoon. Car was DEAD dead. Not even a flicker of light. Battery reads ~ 1.5V. Kaput. How? Anyway, i also could not get it to charge properly. Took it out and will leave it on CTEK over night. Checked for short is system. Resistance acrby grant - Main Forum
i just raise it on a floor jack and put heavy stands (stacked 6 x 6 PT actually) under frame locations. There are actually lots of places that are very strong (stronger than the suggested factory tabs in fact) and not too bad to locate something under. Nice and solid, but it is still very difficult to access the clutch bleeder, since it is way on the top of the tranny, with all sorts of drivesby grant - Main Forum
I hoped the high pickup of the clutch in my track car was just air. Sadly, a simple (admittedly, underline simple) bleed the other night did nothing. I may have worn it a bit with some very aggressive shifting - a side effect of having a slow car. I'll try again, but without a lift its just an awful job (clutch, nto brakes) Gby grant - Main Forum
They are not equal. The rear calipers are smaller. The first belled drains additional lines and part of the reservoir and master... so if 1 is 250mL, the others are not. Its likely a great simplification. Since i have - long ago -- run it until the fluid goes from "darkish" to "lightish" I'm pretty confident in my measurements, for a 986/7 anyway. Grantby grant - Main Forum
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The job, IMHO, takes about 750 mL. I use a self-graduated catch bottle (coke bottle with markets made by magic marker in 50mL increments). The first caliper i remove 250+ mL from, to accommodate for fluid in the reservoir, master and feed line. Others I take ~150mL each. Fluid in the lines is pretty small. Watch it travel in your clear tube - and remember that clear tube is likely 4x the intby grant - Main Forum
After much tugging, banging coaxing, abd swearing, i completed this. All back together. Ebay part looked and felt great. Car went together very smoothly. Alignment done. Car drove wonderfully at Pocono (the video I posted) Thanks to all who gave advice. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Wish i had stuff from the last run, but camera filled up. Here's a bunch of laps in the instructor's RG, with my student aboard. My normal Boxster S track car, on aggressive streeties. Really nice day, terrific event as usual from ACNJ. Track was occasionally a teensy bit damp, but never slick. Enjoy, Grant Pocono Double Infield - ACNJ Fri May 4thby grant - Main Forum
Anyway it is all done and eventually went great. Pro with a bigger tool (fit better and much heavier) got the wishbone apart. Tie rod cam out but insert was welded to it. After much pain for $50 i just got a new tie rod end. Rest went well. Ebay knuckle and wheel bearing surprisingly nice. Sent a nice note to the seller. Gby grant - Main Forum
.. will go more smoothly than mine. I did get the tie rod out last night, but the tapered insert came with it; that's my next task. I did NOT get the wishbone ball joint to release. I even called a buddy over to make sure i was not doing something dumb (like you spoke of). The problem on the wishbone is that my ball joint tool doesn't quite fit right, and i was in no mood to do damage, so i pby grant - Main Forum
First, good to hear from you. All well? Yes, you pretty much have it. I don't (yet) have the pinch bolt out, since the manual suggests doing that last Either way, it is not the problem at the moment. since i wrote the above, i've spent quite a bit of time getting nowhere on both ball joints. I have a ball joint tool (two jaws, does not press on boot, crank it with a screw to apply pressure) anby grant - Main Forum
problems are the worst. You have no stored or pending codes at all? This could be as "simple" ( and maddening) as a bad connection, wire, sensor. or even poor power or ground to ECU or any of those sensors.... Yuk. track cars have lots of vibrations. Lots of chances to loosen stuff, or rattle stuff and damage it. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Great car, and Denver's a great place to have such a car. What roads out in the mountains! ( i have a shared cabin outside Fairplay). Sounds like you got it sorted. Fun taking out the knuckle - I'm in the process right now. Enjoy the car. I'm sure you now that "close enough" isn't really and will have that made perfect. In fact, a really good shop can dial; it in to your liking and anticipateby grant - Main Forum
Hi all, 2000 S track car. PSS9s. I need to remove my RF knuckle /upright/wheel bearing carrier (996.341.658.11). I hope to leave the strut in place with the camber adjustment (top) unmolested. But I'm OK taking it out if necessary. I have the tie rod, wishbone, and sway-bar nuts removed. The sway bar link is free of the away bar. I have some penetrating fluid on the tapered seats of the wisby grant - Main Forum
... i do see a lot of Porsches in the South of France, which I visit for actually business regularly. In Nice, Cannes, Monaco, Antibes etc they are fairly thick on the ground. A few in downtown Barcelona last month. (well, Feb). Rare in most of Germany strangely.by grant - Main Forum
as noted above - get a meter and find out where the 12V stops. As also noted above, the switch can be absolutely devilish - totally non-intuitive failure modes and intermittencies. I have never had the pleasure on a porsche, but many on older Audis. Starter connections? In dash wiring? Starter relay? strange intermittence short somewhere that wires come close to each other? The other nightby grant - Main Forum
.. until it warmed up 2nd dayby grant - Main Forum
.. normal cast iron rotors. Of course they rust. They are cast iron. For those who really care some manufacturers put an anti-rust coating on; your pads wear it off where it matters. totally, completely normal. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Quite a few in the UK, especially London and the rich 'burbs. Prominent top-end cars in Italy, but fewer porsches. Its Germany where i am surprised how few porsches I see. But int he end, its not like Morris County, NJ, where every 15th car is a Porsche, Tesla, Audi, BMW ... If you want to stand out with something special here, get a Chevy Malibu.by grant - Main Forum
Not a good feeling.by grant - Main Forum
Maybe the battery was never dead.... That said, I've seen the ignition switch be very very flaky. Good, no bad, no, wait.by grant - Main Forum
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I doubt it has been tested to ACEA A3/B4. And foaming is less na issue in diesels. While its probably "ok" for everyday use, i would not. Use an A4 approved 0w40 or 5w40. Mobil1 0w40 is the factory fill. Gby grant - Main Forum
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