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0W-40 Mobil1 for Turbo Diesel Trucks?
bar10dah - Saturday, 3 September, 2011, at 7:19:51 pm
Yeah, I know... another oil question...

Went looking at Wal-Mart for the gallon jugs of 0W-40 today. Came across a jug that said "Designed for Turbo Diesel Trucks." What's that about? Compatible with the Boxster? They had it for $23.

Originally looking for 10W-40, but the only 40 they had was the 0W-40. Since we're approaching fall/winter, and I'll probably put enough miles on the car to change the oil again by next spring/summer, should I be sticking with the 0W-40 (if the 'diesel trucks' label on the front doesn't matter) or should I keep looking until I find the 10W-40? I'm in Alabama.
It's not just a matter of two same brand synthetics having the same viscosity ratings. I wouldn't do it. Why not try a mail order house? You could get what you want through Amazon.

Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?
Okay, thanks! Glad I didn't purchase it. *NM*
bar10dah - Saturday, 3 September, 2011, at 7:39:22 pm
i often buy Shell Rotella T6 5w40
grant - Monday, 30 April, 2012, at 12:21:51 pm
.. which is a truck oil, with ACEA A7 rating adn Cummins, Detroit, Mack, etc certification.

hwoever it was recently pointed out to me that it calso carries the ACEA A3/B4 certs.

I expect that oil for diesel trucks would have more acids to deal with, and maybe more particulate matter to suspend, but, over all, woudl added suspension adn pH neutralizing capabilities be a bad thing? I dont believe so.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Quote
grant
.. which is a truck oil, with ACEA A7 rating adn Cummins, Detroit, Mack, etc certification.

hwoever it was recently pointed out to me that it calso carries the ACEA A3/B4 certs.

I expect that oil for diesel trucks would have more acids to deal with, and maybe more particulate matter to suspend, but, over all, woudl added suspension adn pH neutralizing capabilities be a bad thing? I dont believe so.

Grant

Bringing up T6's MSDS next to Mobil 1 0w-40's MSDS I see the T6 oil contains among other things in its indgredients: A blend of polyolefins and additives; highly refined mineral oil, compared to say Mobil 1 0w-40 which consists of synthetic base stocks and additives with no mineral oil listed.

Also, Rotella T6 oil has a lower initial boiling point (>280C) than Mobil 1 0w-40 (>316C). A lower boiling point oil is not an oil I'd use in a gasoline which runs hotter on average than a diesel engine. On this note the autoignition temp of T6 is >320C while the autoignition temp of Mobil 1 is N/D.

Then T6 has a pour point is -20C typical while Mobil 1 oil has a pour point of -45C

Viscosity is > 40cst at 40C while Mobil 1's is 80cst at 40C.

A diesel engine oil probably has a larger additive package but this can be a negative for gasoline engine applications, as the more additives the less oil there is in a given unit of oil.

IOWs, a quart of diesel oil with more additives has less *oil* available for lubrication purposes.

Why people believe running an oil tailored for diesel engines in a gasoline engine is somehow better than running an oil tailored for gasoline engines in a gasoline engine is beyond me.

And that the T6 oil has all that ACEA/A3/B4 certification just underscores how useless these certs are nowadays for helping one pick a suitable oil for a given application.

Sincerely,

MarcW.
Different set of data admittedly, but they almost seem incompatible.

Here are those that i condensed into my cheat sheet:

Shell Rotella-T6 5W40
90 Vis @ 40C
15 vis @ 100C
176 VI
3.9 HTHS
-40 Pour pt
222 flash

Mobil One 0W40
80
14.3
187
3.7
-54
230

Flash points below boiling points? Seems impossible to me - of course its all int he spec and how measured, but still..

Something does not add up.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/04/2012 08:42PM by grant. (view changes)
Re: i often buy Shell Rotella T6 5w40
Petee_C - Friday, 4 May, 2012, at 12:11:47 am
I use rotella in my Honda motorcycle and just started using the t6 in my Jetta 1.8t for the cost savings compared to other retail oils. P
Re: 0W-40 Mobil1 for Turbo Diesel Trucks?
Dale_K - Sunday, 4 September, 2011, at 3:35:04 pm
I was at the Walmart today, too and found Rotella T6 in 5w-40 and am considering it. It was in the diesel truck area but the jug had gas motor specs on it along with the compression ignition ratings. I don't know what the "T6" means but the stuff was only $21 for a 5 quart jug.
and last i checked, CHEAP.

in fact, i put it in the audi yesterday. No dark angles descended (or would that be ascended?). The warning chime did not begin speaking in tongues. in fact, it appeared to be motor oil.

I have not yet elected to put it in my Boxster. right now i'm mostly running 5w40 edge. But T6s HTHS suggests i would use it in preference to M1 0w40 (>3.9 vs < 3.7) which i avoid -only because i spend sufficient time on the track that such measures are important to me - more so than low temp flow or long -duration ability to suspend dirt - neither of which i tax.

Grant
Settled for M1 0W-40 at Napa - which says for European cars
bar10dah - Monday, 5 September, 2011, at 7:29:27 pm
I found 0W-40 of Mobil 1 by the quart at the local Napa on sale for $5.98/qt. They don't have 5W-40 or 10W-40. And they don't have it in the 5qt size. Bought 10 quarts and a Napa Gold 1042 filter. This'll get me through the mild Alabama winter. Come spring, when I should be due for my next oil change, I'll continue my search for 5W-40 or 10W-40.

Picked up the LN Engineering spin-on adapter, new drain plug, and 10 crush washers. Hopefully they'll arrive by Friday so I can do the oil change this weekend. Didn't think about it until after I placed my order, but should have gotten the magnetic drain plug instead.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/05/2011 07:30PM by bar10dah. (view changes)
Has anyone else installed the LN Engineering spin-on oil filter adapter? Anyone think its worth it?
I need to back up. What's wrong with our existing oil filters?
grant - Thursday, 26 April, 2012, at 11:07:51 am
IS there some dark issue i'm unaware of?

A solution requires first, a problem.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
The sales literature published by LN and the 101 Projects book sold by Pelican's founder Wayne Dempsey both suggest that the stock filter and canister setup permits oil to bypass the filter, and that converting to an integrated filter design supposedly allows for better filtration, i.e. due to no oil bypass of the filter. I'm not sure whether to believe the hype, but with an '01 that I want to keep on the road for a long time, I would be willing to do an upgrade that would increase longevity. Just wondering if anyone else has had any experience with this product one way or another.
I've cut and paste a response that the owner of LN wrote on the Pelican board a few years ago, dentoted by "START" and "END". Curious whether people here agree:


START
Good question! There are mutiple reasons to use the spin on oil filter adapter.

The original reason to make the spin-on oil filter adapter was to allow us to use readily available adapters to easily plumb in an external oil cooler or Accusump. Everything else was just secondary, but we've found that many people like them because it just makes oil changes easier.

The original housing is just cheap and so are the filters. You wouldn't believe the number of thank yous we have gotten since releasing this product.

We realized was that the OE filter wasn't that great and that by allowing use of a more common 13/16-16 filter thread, we had many filter choices that were both easy to find at any auto parts stores and in most cases, significantly cheaper too even when upgrading to Mobil 1 or K&N Gold branded filters which far outperform the OE filter with respect to the quality of filtration provided.

Long story short, the Mobil 1 and K&N Gold filters are a well constructed filter, using synthetic resin impregnated filter media capable of filtering lower micron particles while not restricting oil flow. There are many oil filter studies out there and they all come to the same conclusion that these filters are the best.

With a steel bodied oil filter, you can also use a Filtermag, which we've determined products like these do work to nearly eliminate iron particles from the oil, which those particles are a primary source of wear.

The most common question I get is why we didn't make this use a Porsche spin-on filter. While we could do this, it would defeat the purpose. The only filter properly sized is the secondary 993 filter, and really the only people who keep those around are dealerships. Shops using our filter adapters can purchase through local parts houses the M1 or K&N filters, or even the Napa Gold filters we also recommend in bulk master packs for next to nothing.

The next common question is how did we come about the filters we have chosen? Napa Gold 1042, M1-107, or HP-1007. They are full flow without a bypass, like the factory configuration. They are similarly sized and provide similar ground clearance. However, there are many more that could work too.
END
that of course is too small to be caught by the filter -- which given the overwhelming majority of these cars are not suffering from worn out engines is a solution looking for a problem -- it doesn't remove the most abrasive particulate matter in the oil and that is the aluminum oxide particles that flake off from. These alum. oxide particles are far more abrasive than iron particles.

And the factory filter doesn't have a pressure bypass. The pressure bypass is at the pump. All oil that is pumped to the clean side of the oil system is filtered oil.

BTW, in the 993 Porsche had two filters, the regular filter and a bypass filter. The bypass filter was there to remove even smaller particles than the regular filter. The concern was even the finer particles would be harmful to the zero-lash valve adjusters. Porsche found out the regular filter was quite up to the task of removing particles that could prove harmful to then engine and did away with the bypass filter for the 996 models and ever since.

Sincerely,

MarcW.
Thank you Marc. I liked your "solution looking for a problem" terminology!
Thanks Marc. I thought not.
grant - Friday, 27 April, 2012, at 2:44:18 pm
As i've noted before, aside from the relatively small number of catastrophic IMS failures, these motors seem to run, and run and run.

Plus, i change my oil before any filter will plug up, and I check the filter media for flotsam every change or two (and i've never seen any, at all, none).

Finally, i can get my preferred brand - WIX - at the corner NAPA if needed, although i usually buy them a few at a time when i'm ordering from, say, pelican.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Quote
MarcW
that of course is too small to be caught by the filter -- which given the overwhelming majority of these cars are not suffering from worn out engines is a solution looking for a problem -- it doesn't remove the most abrasive particulate matter in the oil and that is the aluminum oxide particles that flake off from. These alum. oxide particles are far more abrasive than iron particles.

And the factory filter doesn't have a pressure bypass. The pressure bypass is at the pump. All oil that is pumped to the clean side of the oil system is filtered oil.

BTW, in the 993 Porsche had two filters, the regular filter and a bypass filter. The bypass filter was there to remove even smaller particles than the regular filter. The concern was even the finer particles would be harmful to the zero-lash valve adjusters. Porsche found out the regular filter was quite up to the task of removing particles that could prove harmful to then engine and did away with the bypass filter for the 996 models and ever since.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

I thought that the factory filter housing has a bypass, in case the filter gets catastrophically clogged (or have straight 40 wt oil in your car and are trying to start your car at 20 below.). While LN says a filter bypass is bad, its better to have full flow, my understanding is the factory filter bypass will never actuate under normal conditions.
Just the other day...
MarcW - Sunday, 29 April, 2012, at 5:57:41 pm
Quote
San Rensho
Quote
MarcW
that of course is too small to be caught by the filter -- which given the overwhelming majority of these cars are not suffering from worn out engines is a solution looking for a problem -- it doesn't remove the most abrasive particulate matter in the oil and that is the aluminum oxide particles that flake off from. These alum. oxide particles are far more abrasive than iron particles.

And the factory filter doesn't have a pressure bypass. The pressure bypass is at the pump. All oil that is pumped to the clean side of the oil system is filtered oil.

BTW, in the 993 Porsche had two filters, the regular filter and a bypass filter. The bypass filter was there to remove even smaller particles than the regular filter. The concern was even the finer particles would be harmful to the zero-lash valve adjusters. Porsche found out the regular filter was quite up to the task of removing particles that could prove harmful to then engine and did away with the bypass filter for the 996 models and ever since.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

I thought that the factory filter housing has a bypass, in case the filter gets catastrophically clogged (or have straight 40 wt oil in your car and are trying to start your car at 20 below.). While LN says a filter bypass is bad, its better to have full flow, my understanding is the factory filter bypass will never actuate under normal conditions.

I spoke (I had a car in for service last week and spent an hour or so at the dealer in the service area) with a couple of Porsche techs and they told me the Boxster engine filter does not have a pressure relief/bypass.

In the past when I've done oil/filter changes I have looked at a filter and I do not see one nor do I see a pressure relief ball valve in the dirty high pressure area of the filter mounting area of the engine.

I'm told the pressure relief valve is in the pump or just after the pump and if the filter is not able to pass sufficient oil to keep the pressure down -- like at cold engine start or possibly with too high of engine revs with the engine is not fully up to temp -- the pressure relief valve of course provides relief by directing oil either back to the oil sump or to the intake side of the pump. My WAG is it probably the former for the latter route could have the pump heating the oil considerably.

The pressure relief could also come into play if the filter becomes clogged if left in service too long. I note that at least in the case of my 02 Boxster in the owners manual service schedule the oil changes were scheduled for 15K miles and the filter changes at 30K miles so there must be some considerable filter margin.

Compared to other filters for instance the one that my 06 GTO used the Boxster filter element is huge. The GTO's filter (spin-on) was about the size of the large coffee/tea mug. The actual filter element was of course smaller than the housing.

If a filter became clogged enough to restrict flow and pressure I would expect at hot idle to see oil pressure drop enough (below 1 bar for those cars that have a gage) to the point the low oil pressure or oil warning light would at least flash if not remain constantly lit.

An unknown though is the piston oil jets which are fed via an oil port that has a pressure relief. If the oil pressure drops too low this valve closes and the piston jets receive no oil This could work to alleviate (or mask) a very low oil pressure condition though the pistons might suffer from running hotter than normal (the oil jets says Porsche reduces piston temps by 50C).

Even with engine fully hot the oil pressure is between (based on my other car, not the Boxster -- it does not have the hardware to deliver anything other than a low oil pressure signal) 1.7 to 2.0 bar depending upon various factors. The oil pressure sensor is located quite a distance away from the oil pump. When I had my Boxster in for its VarioCam solenoid/actuator work the tech told me the oil pressure sensor is located at the camshaft cover about as far away from the oil pump as is feasible.

I have no worries about the capability of the stock oil filter. I wouldn't consider running it for 30K miles though so it gets changed every 5K mile oil change. Well, almost every 5K mile oil change. There have been a few times when I've been in a hurry and -- and the oil drains out still having some amber color to it (like after a 4-5K mile road trip with almost no stop/go driving) -- so I've not bothered to change the filter so a few times the filter has remained in service for 10K miles.

Sincerely,

MarcW.
Re: Just the other day...
San Rensho - Sunday, 29 April, 2012, at 9:38:45 pm
Quote
MarcW
Quote
San Rensho
Quote
MarcW
that of course is too small to be caught by the filter -- which given the overwhelming majority of these cars are not suffering from worn out engines is a solution looking for a problem -- it doesn't remove the most abrasive particulate matter in the oil and that is the aluminum oxide particles that flake off from. These alum. oxide particles are far more abrasive than iron particles.

And the factory filter doesn't have a pressure bypass. The pressure bypass is at the pump. All oil that is pumped to the clean side of the oil system is filtered oil.

BTW, in the 993 Porsche had two filters, the regular filter and a bypass filter. The bypass filter was there to remove even smaller particles than the regular filter. The concern was even the finer particles would be harmful to the zero-lash valve adjusters. Porsche found out the regular filter was quite up to the task of removing particles that could prove harmful to then engine and did away with the bypass filter for the 996 models and ever since.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

I thought that the factory filter housing has a bypass, in case the filter gets catastrophically clogged (or have straight 40 wt oil in your car and are trying to start your car at 20 below.). While LN says a filter bypass is bad, its better to have full flow, my understanding is the factory filter bypass will never actuate under normal conditions.

I spoke (I had a car in for service last week and spent an hour or so at the dealer in the service area) with a couple of Porsche techs and they told me the Boxster engine filter does not have a pressure relief/bypass.

In the past when I've done oil/filter changes I have looked at a filter and I do not see one nor do I see a pressure relief ball valve in the dirty high pressure area of the filter mounting area of the engine.

I'm told the pressure relief valve is in the pump or just after the pump and if the filter is not able to pass sufficient oil to keep the pressure down -- like at cold engine start or possibly with too high of engine revs with the engine is not fully up to temp -- the pressure relief valve of course provides relief by directing oil either back to the oil sump or to the intake side of the pump. My WAG is it probably the former for the latter route could have the pump heating the oil considerably.

The pressure relief could also come into play if the filter becomes clogged if left in service too long. I note that at least in the case of my 02 Boxster in the owners manual service schedule the oil changes were scheduled for 15K miles and the filter changes at 30K miles so there must be some considerable filter margin.

Compared to other filters for instance the one that my 06 GTO used the Boxster filter element is huge. The GTO's filter (spin-on) was about the size of the large coffee/tea mug. The actual filter element was of course smaller than the housing.

If a filter became clogged enough to restrict flow and pressure I would expect at hot idle to see oil pressure drop enough (below 1 bar for those cars that have a gage) to the point the low oil pressure or oil warning light would at least flash if not remain constantly lit.

An unknown though is the piston oil jets which are fed via an oil port that has a pressure relief. If the oil pressure drops too low this valve closes and the piston jets receive no oil This could work to alleviate (or mask) a very low oil pressure condition though the pistons might suffer from running hotter than normal (the oil jets says Porsche reduces piston temps by 50C).

Even with engine fully hot the oil pressure is between (based on my other car, not the Boxster -- it does not have the hardware to deliver anything other than a low oil pressure signal) 1.7 to 2.0 bar depending upon various factors. The oil pressure sensor is located quite a distance away from the oil pump. When I had my Boxster in for its VarioCam solenoid/actuator work the tech told me the oil pressure sensor is located at the camshaft cover about as far away from the oil pump as is feasible.

I have no worries about the capability of the stock oil filter. I wouldn't consider running it for 30K miles though so it gets changed every 5K mile oil change. Well, almost every 5K mile oil change. There have been a few times when I've been in a hurry and -- and the oil drains out still having some amber color to it (like after a 4-5K mile road trip with almost no stop/go driving) -- so I've not bothered to change the filter so a few times the filter has remained in service for 10K miles.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

You are right, the oil pump has a bypass which actuates around 3500 rpm, routing oil back into the sump, But the filter housing, not the filter itself, has a valve at the bottom, which is a pressure relief valve, that will bypass the filter when the differential pressure between the outside of the filter, the pressurised side, and the pressure in the inside of the filter, the unpressurised, reaches a certain level.
0W-40 Mobil1 or 5W-40 for Turbo Diesel Trucks?
MarknearChicago - Monday, 5 September, 2011, at 9:17:25 pm
At my WallyMart they only have the 5W-40. Just put it in my Boxster and soon it will go in my 993tt.
BTW I've used Mobil1/Delvac1 for over 30 years - all with no problems
Mark near Chicago
Re: 0W-40 Mobil1 for Turbo Diesel Trucks?
steve_wilwerding - Tuesday, 8 May, 2012, at 9:54:15 am
Back to the oil topic, I talked with a mechanic the other day about diesel vs. gasoline oil - he said that diesel formulations tend to have zinc and other compounds that don't usually harm the engines, but can't plug up cats. He didn't recommend running diesel oil in a gas engine with cats.
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