I got a used alternator on ebay for about $60..

Heard some bearing noise from the engine. Upon inspection it is hard to pin it to a particular idler pulley. Pulled belt and spun all - seemed OK. Put belt back on and used screwdriver to listen. Seems top idler is the culprit. If not, I think - maybe - the power steering pump to the right. Checked power steering fluid level - AOK.
Only 46K miles. Replaced alternator a few years ago.
Questions:

1) Both idler pulleys look the same. I'll probably just run down to Park Place and pick up a pair. What is the torque value on that fastener?
2) If that doesn't do it I'll make a second trip and get a tensioner pulley. How is that removed (the one with the large 22mm is it?) nut?
3) Any votes for which of these 3 fails the most often?
4) Searched on idler pulley and the only thread was for the top idler failure - same as I think I have (mine just hasn't gone epic fail yet)
5) Other comments?

Eric in Dallas

I lost the tensioner pulley at the track last year. The others seemed OK but I replaced all three anyway. The old ones weren't really bad but the new ones were still much smoother. They are all different part numbers, about $75 each as I recall. You have to reuse the bolt on the tensioner unless you want to do a lot of engine disassembly. I just reused it with alot of threadlock. Not worried.

I put both idlers and a new belt in. Problem solved.
Interesting that the top idler - the prime suspect - did not feel bad though it did have some discoloration on the outside - perhaps heat generated.

Oh well, rule one is go with the simple likely culprits.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/24/2012 01:58PM by MarcW. (view changes)

Noise came back on a full operating temperature motor. Dang.

COuld be front motor mount is not isolating normal noise.

To be continued......

If the noise is quite distinct, you can remove the belt and start the engine, even a hot engine, and let it run just long enough to determine if the noise is present with the belt removed. This assumes of course the noise is present immediately upon/after a hot start.

For immediately, we're talking seconds the fewer the better though the engine could run some time (at idle) safely. No need to push things, though.

The idea is you want to determine if the noise is coming from outside the engine, or inside the engine.

If you decide to remove the belt and start the hot engine what you hear or do not hear determines what you do next.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

Thanks Mark. Local dealer tech thinks it is the alternator bushing. I replaced a failed alternator with a used 996 alternator (has a clutch) a few years back. Dealer says a new alternator is priced over $1500 without install! Can you believe that?
Anyway, the noise is in its infancy. I'll just run it until it gets loud. With that clutch, I don't have to worry about it seizing and taking the belt with it.

Richardson Alternator here in the Dallas area will re-build these alternators for $150 (bearings, diodes, whatever is needed)

In any event he spotted 2 torn CV boots (one each axle) so I'll get the axles serviced, have them install the new tires and I should be good to go.

Eric

Rock Auto has alternators for 3.2L Boxster (looked at 2000 model) that range from $106 to $297 (after core) for re-manufactured alternators. This doesn't seem like a difficult job and there are lots of help sites online.

Not saying you should do this yourself, just saying that even if the alternator was new and $500, there is no way this is a $1K labor job (8-10 hours).

At least check with an indy!

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

I put the 996 alternator in a few years ago. Just takes a little wiggling.
The idea that a dealer would quote $1500+ for a new alternator is just nuts. Nuts!

The serp belt is a 20 minute job. How tough can the alternator possibly be?

I am open to being surprised, but it seems that you are rightly resisting the urge to bend over.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Quote
Eric in Dallas
Thanks Mark. Local dealer tech thinks it is the alternator bushing. I replaced a failed alternator with a used 996 alternator (has a clutch) a few years back. Dealer says a new alternator is priced over $1500 without install! Can you believe that?
Anyway, the noise is in its infancy. I'll just run it until it gets loud. With that clutch, I don't have to worry about it seizing and taking the belt with it.

Richardson Alternator here in the Dallas area will re-build these alternators for $150 (bearings, diodes, whatever is needed)

In any event he spotted 2 torn CV boots (one each axle) so I'll get the axles serviced, have them install the new tires and I should be good to go.

Eric

unless one is getting those used 996 alternators and getting them installed at a good discount a couple of those over the span of a few years could have you spending close to if possibly not over $1500.

Anyhow, you should be sure of all the failure modes of that 996 alternator, that for instance if the noise was related to the clutch the clutch could fail, and seize and in doing so take out the belt.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

Then local indy installed it for about $250. Been good for over two years now, no issues.

I had some extra time so I took a failed core (996) alternator from my local indie and had Richardson Alternator rebuild it. This alternator came out of a garage queen turbo. No battery maintainer so the owner would just jump the car and let the alternator charge the battery. This caused the voltage regulator to always run wide open and it burned out. It also had a bad diode. Richardson put in a regulator, diode board and a new bearing set for $179. I installed it (about 1.5 hours) and the noise is gone.

I took my bearing noisy alternator to Richardson for a new bearing set. I'll keep it on the shelf for the next time.

In any case, Porsche quoting $1500 for an alternator before labor is just farking insane