Success!!!!!! Thank you all

All,

Just spent some time changing out the ignition module with the Audi part following the procedures posted here and on the old Boxster Board. Not fun but I twisted myself around and got it done. Now the big problem. Maybe that is not what had been the problem since now the key will not turn and the steering wheel is locked. I have not driven or started the car since October, just sitting in its bedroom with the electric blanket (battery maintainer) plugged in.

The problems I had been having over the past couple of years was that when pulling the key out sometimes the ignition switch did not "pop" out. I assumed this was due to the often-mentioned module problems that so I bought the Audi part to have on hand.

Does anyone have any ideas? I live about 500 miles from the nearest Porsche dealer so that presents some problems.

Thanks,

Neil

2001 Boxster S

Neil, my experience soon after I bought my Boxster is not totally the same as yours, in that it didn't involve a change in the ignition switch, but here is what happened: I had only had the car a few weeks. Upon exiting the car one day, I moved the steering wheel after shutting the car down and removing the key. In doing so the steering lock engaged with tension on the locking mechanism. Upon re-entering the car I had a similar situation as you and had visions of the car being flat-bedded to the dealer. Why, I don't remember, but I moved the steering wheel slightly and got it out of binding against the steering lock mechanism and was able to start the car. This may or may not be the situation you have, but there are similarities, so I decided to share my experience with you. Regards, Rich

The electrical portion on the end or the mechanical portion?

Assuming you changed the electrical portion (which may or may not solve the problem you were having), you probably had the cylinder improperly lined up with the electrical portion when you put the new part on.

Boxsterra,

I changed out the part at the end of the ignition, the part that requires loosening the two screws covered with red paint. There is no way the part was not lined up correctly as there are only two ways to put it in and I know it was installed and seated correctly before reattaching the electrical connection.

As this is the only Porsche I have owned I assume others have the same process of when removing the key. It has always made a popping sound that confirms it is no longer engaging the electrical circuit.

I have tried to move the steering wheel from side to side very vigorously but with no success. As stated above it is possible that the car had been sitting there for a few months without the ignition having "popped" out and the steering wheel locked and my replacing the unit under the dash and now no movement when inserting the key was entirely coincidental.

Regardless, does anyone have any experience with this problem. Pedro, HELP!!

Thank you,

Neil

2001 Boxster S

switch replaced.

I had bought just the electical module (from a nearby Audi dealer) but I just didn't have the time to do the work and my auto mechnical skills have deteriorated to the point that I didn't think I'd be successful, so I took the car to a local dealer.

The tech tried to reproduce the no start symptom but was unsuccessful. He was not sure the ignition switch was at fault. He said it felt pretty good in fact.

But I had had the clutch interlock switch replaced and was willing to throw an ignition switch at the symptom.

What this is leading up to is one reason I bought the electrical module at the Audi dealer is the Porsche dealer parts manager told me, and the techs confirmed this, was that Porsche no longer offered the electrical module separately and no longer authorized the replacement of just the module by itself.

The entire switch except of course the key tumbler portion (unless it was also identified as needing replacement) was replaced.

The techs reported there were too many comebacks after just replacing the electrical module. I have to note these guys do this work day in and day out and the comebacks were not due to sloppy work.

Anyhow, I had the entire ignition switch replaced (and I think I sold the electrical module to someone from here...or maybe that was some 6 new spark plugs.. I forget.).

To finish the story, the ignition switch did not solve the no start problem completely. It still occurs but very rarely. The real source of the problem is the clutch interlock switch which even though it was replaced with a new one is to blame. What I gather is there are some bad switches out there and if a new one doesn't work right the new clutch switch should probably be replaced, again. The switch is under $20 and most owners can replace this themselves. I had it done (at no charge) when I had the car in for some minor servicing.

So, the point of all of the above is I think you should replace the entire switch. In your car's case I think the problem is not with the electrical module but the the mechanical portion of the switch.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

Mark,

Thank you for the information. I agree the problem is mechanical (the key will not turn at all) and likely the entire switch will need to be replaced. Is this really something I can do? Wouldn't this require new keys and/or programming from the dealer? Does it require removing the dash? All things I need to know know to prepare.

Neil

a dealer will only change the electrical switch along with the steering wheel lock. I too had bought the Audi switch in case I needed to do the job myself as you did. However while at a dealer for oil and brake fluid change, the ignition switch acted up and needed replaced. I had the Audi ignition switch with me and figured I'd just go ahead and pay the labor charge for them to put it in. That is when I found out that they would only do the replacement with Porsche part # 996 347 017 07, which is the steering lock assembly with ignition switch/without lock cylinder. Up until then, it was quite confusing to me when mention was made by anyone about "ignition switch", "lock cylinder", and "steering wheel lock". I don't know how to post pictures, but if you do a computer search on "996 347 017 07" and look at either paragon-products.com or koperformance.com you will see the item. It is the steering lock assembly with the ignition switch, but without the lock cylinder. Whether this is what you need or it is the lock cylinder, I wouldn't venture to guess. What I do know is that when I was at the dealer, when the ignition key was removed, there wasn't a noticeable noise of any kind. With 996 347 017 07 now installed, when the key is removed there is a distinct "clunk" which I assume is the steering lock. I am like you, my Boxster is my first Porsche and I am also without a close-by dealership or independent. I'm a bit better off in that a dealership or independent is only about 160 miles away. I was up to the task of replacing the ignition switch, just as you did, but wouldn't know where to begin to replace the steering wheel lock. I was also led to believe that the ignition switch that is part of #996 347 017 07 is an improved switch over the Audi part. I hope someone on this Board can help you out. Rich

Quote
Wyominguy
Mark,

Thank you for the information. I agree the problem is mechanical (the key will not turn at all) and likely the entire switch will need to be replaced. Is this really something I can do? Wouldn't this require new keys and/or programming from the dealer? Does it require removing the dash? All things I need to know know to prepare.

Neil

replaced after all.

If the entire (mechanical/electrical) ignition switch needs to be replaced -- note: 'entire' doesn't include the key tumbler portion! -- you can do this yourself, if you're mechanically inclined. More than a few owners hereabouts have done this.

There are some tricks to having this job go smoother, but I do not know them. There's a DIY article or 3 on this I'm sure.

No need to remove the dash. The original keys continue to work because the 'old' tumbler is removed from the old switch assembly and moved to the new assembly.

But if you are going to tackle this before you start get as many DIY articles as you can find on the subject and ask for any updates from people here who've done this job.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

but the rotating part not being lined up. I would remove the new part, make sure the center part is rotated to match the old part, then put the new part back on.

Boxsterra and dghii,

I will try taking it out tomorrow night. BTW, this part has not been replaced since I have owned the car for over seven years and know the previous owner did not replace anything with the ignition.

Thanks,

Neil

... As I've seen this same thing happen to several people.
You'll need to remove the electrical connector and loosen the two screws and pull out the switch you just installed.
Make sure the key is out if the ignition.
Take a look at the tab inside the now empty housing and see how it is aligned.
Now align the notch in the switch itself using a small flat blade screwdriver so that when you insert it back into the housing it will fit the tab perfectly.
Then reassemble and you should be good to go.
Happy Boxstering
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

---

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My 2000 Boxster needed a replacement switch last summer. I purchased the part for my car from NAPA for $15. When I went to install it, it would not work correctly. I think my ignition mechanism must have been swapped by the previous owner to the newer part. It turned out that by buying the NAPA part for 2003 and newer Boxsters installed and worked correctly.

That being said, it sure sounds like your column is locked (the turn the wheel issue). Remove the electrical part you put in and see what happens. Tug on the wheel and wiggle the key some more...it might just free it up.

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

I have a parking 'bump' in my garage to let me know how far to pull forward. There have been times when the wheel is locked on me as well. As silly as it sounds, rather than cranking on the wheel I have found that by shifting my weight around and rocking the car back and forth the wheel frees itself.

If everything else is working, perhaps this may help.


Andrew

Some time ago the friend who bought my 2001 remarked on how he sometimes had to fight with the wheel to get the key to turn.

Boxsterra, Pedro and all the others,

Just spent some time with the Boxster taking the ignition module back out and putting it back in again and it works!! I did have the key in my hand while under the dash and had to insert it into the ignition switch while putting the module on, when I wiggled it slightly everything popped into place and the key was able to turn and the steering wheel lock released. Note to self: I had the old module also in my hands to compare while doing this and next time I will be sure to mark the old unit so I can tell the difference. I put the old one in first and it still was acting up so I went back in and did the entire thing over again.

Good thing I had 2 glasses of wine beforehand so I did not feel the pain from being upside down.


Thanks again to all of you. Now that the weather is approaching 60 tomorrow I might just be able to drive it to work.

Neil

2001 Boxster S

I still have the indentation in my forehead from the clutch pedal to prove it.

Neil