Battery Replacement

After getting back in to town from an hour long interstate drive, I went straight to Walmart to get some flowers. Came out of the store and turned the key, and it tried, very weakly, to start. Thought it might be ignition gremlins, as everything was fine previously. After a while just a click, and no engagement. Pulled up Mike Focke's site (Thanks Mike) for list of batteries, and went back into Walmart to check theirs out. No Class 48's in there. They looked it up and said an H-6 is what their manual said fit my 2000 base. Skeptical, I borrowed their portable jump starter, and headed back out. Let the charger stay on for around 8 - 10 min. and tried to start. It tried, but not enough juice. I measured my Duralast and went back inside. The H-6 was the correct height and width. Bought it, borrowed a 10mm and 13 mm wrench from the auto guys, went outside, and after a 5 min. installation, it started right up. Ran poorly pulling out of the store, but in a couple of min all was good.
Not too bad of a battery life. I've had the car 7 years, and have never changed the battery. Very convenient that it decided to conk out while I was at Wally World.
Just wanted others to know that the Everlast H-6 is a suitable replacement.
Next up, .....fix the sensitive horn issue. Any links or tips to help with that repair appreciated.

Clam

Hi Clam -

I can help you with this one, as I've just done the fix.

Basically, the weight of the airbag is supported by four rubber septa (I'm sure there's a better word for this...) with a metal sleeve in the middle all supported by a metal frame. Over time the rubber septa degrade/split/fail allowing the frame to hit the horn contacts and giving you the beeps every time you hit a bump (very embarrassing!). There are two torx screws accessible from the back of the steering wheel that will release the airbag and allow access to the metal frame.

Be sure to disconnect the battery before starting and situate the steering wheel where you want it and remove the key from the ignition. Loosen the screws in the back - they're in there with Loctite, so it takes a little force. The airbag pulls right off and can be disconnected by just popping up the yellow connector at the airbag. Now, you will see four large hex nuts in each corner of the steering wheel. The rubber septa are underneath these hex nuts. Remove the four hex nuts, and the metal frame will come loose. Don't lose the two torx screws that will come off with the frame. Those are the screws that hold on the airbag.

Now the fix. If you search here and on the various fora, you will see several different fixes that come in two basic varieties: one: make a new septa with various washers, garden hose pieces, etc., or, two: just fill in the gaps with a high-temp silicone. (This will all make complete sense once you get that frame off and actually see what the septa look like and how it works).

I went with the fill-in-the gaps option and just filled both sides of the septa with "high-temp red RTV silicone gasket maker" that I got at the local auto parts store for about $7, leaving the old bushing completely in place and just filling the cavity with the silicone. It has to set up for 24-hours. Reverse the process above and you're done.

I did this fix about two weeks ago, and so far, no beeps. Life is good.

Now, if I could've just gotten that #^&U^ing overflow tank out...

Amy

Might be a rainy day here, and I can tackle this one today.
Mine has been very sensitive for a while, and finally the other day while at work, while sitting in the hot sun, the horn just started going off. Had to put a little piece of paper in there to stop it.
Thanks for the info.
Clam