Re: 2000 2.7 -- steering wheel feel/vibration

Hey Guys - I have a 2000 Boxster w/ 70k miles. I rarely drive it but for last yr or so have noticed something "unsettling" that is related to (must be IMO) the steering "system".

Just when backing out of my driveway (coasting back - so car in neutral), or coasting fwd too in a parking lot....................I can feel a (for lack of a better word) slight vibration "feel" in the steering wheel (I do NOT feel it in the seat or w/ the car in general - just that it is coming thru the steering wheel). And I think the steering "feel" overall seems kind of loosey/goosey (more so than when I recall yrs back). Car is not driven hard @ all.

The last time @ dealer they spotted something called the "bumper stops"? (bushings) for the front struts that they said were getting dry rotted. And I opted to WAIT on fixing it. [as it didn't sound like a safety issue @ time]

QUESTION: Do you think these front strut bushings could be the cause for a loose "feel" in the steering, along w/ the vibration feeling coming thru the steering wheel while coasting? Or do you think it is something else? I feel like there must be many, many on this board who have gone thru similar issues and can help guide me.

Thanks in advance!!

Bump stop is a rubber donut that keeps the piston from bottoming out. Could throw in garbage and you would nto detect a difference, until something broke as a result.

Strut bushing (centers the top of strut) would do EXACTLY what you say, if its anything like the ones on older Audis and VWs. Once the top of the strut starts moving around, you'll get clunks and vagueness. Danger? Eventually. Odd on a car with 70k driven "not hard".

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

I just had a second set of front control arms replaced now at 196K miles on my 2000S. I think these things are the culprit of all kinds of odd gremlins. Their wear manifested in odd clunking particularly when driving slowly on undulating (not bouncing) surface. The latest was wheel vibration at 90 mph and then slowly the vibration would start at lower and lower speeds.

Unfortunately, these arms are expensive and the two fronts that I had replaced were around $325 each for the part. I just did one, then went back a month later and did the other.

Now that I have them replaced, the car experienced other unexpected improvements in that the steering is just a bit "better/tighter". I know this is a strong statement, but I think all control arms at front and back should be replaced at 90K miles. These things just wear out and the improvements are very noticeable. My friend stated my car drives like a new one... pretty positive statement given the high chassis mileage.

My rear control arms, the ones that extend lengthwise, first clunked so I replaced them. Then on the second round, I didn't hear clunking, but got a "torque" steer at high speeds. Press the gas, the car's direction shifted, release the gas, the direction shifted the other way. This was very very subtle and had no clunking.... only was perceptible at high highway speeds.

I had and still have strut bearing creaks when turning the wheel- comes and goes. This was audible at low speed maneuvers when parking etc. Back when my car was under warranty, there was a service bulletin on them and it was optional for a dealer to replace them. My dealer did and did an alignment with it gratis. Since then, they still creak on occasion. I can't remember if I've ever had them replaced since.

Bruce



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2012 10:23AM by Bruce In Philly (195K+). (view changes)

but that's another story.

I wonder if bushings are available to press in (yo Pedro!, Technobushings?)

I definitely find they are a wear item on most cars. On B5/C5 chassis audis, they are good for 60-90k. Then its slowly down hill.

***note to those with Audis: the CAs have tow points of failure: the rubber bushing at one and, and the ball joints that form the "virtual pivot point" at the other end. These dry out and fail; while the rubber slowly cracks and shrinks. The Ball joint end can be prolonged by injecting grease and sealing the boot at the first sign of tell-tale groaning.

I just did all my UCAs as well as strut mounts on the S6 when i did the coil-overs. Nice.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2012 07:37PM by grant. (view changes)

I had the rear control arms replaced at around 60k miles for I think around $800. Now I'm starting to hear the same "clunking" sound going over rough roads at about 90k miles. Ridiculous. Dealer told me the bushings aren't replacable and I needed new arms. Is this true? Is there a cheaper alternative to new control arms?

but dont make them extra stiff, like the techno mount,- just do an OEM or better replacement.

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

Quote
grant
but that's another story.

I wonder if bushings are available to press in (yo Pedro!, Technobushings?)

I definitely find they are a wear item on most cars. On B5/C5 chassis audis, they are good for 60-90k. Then its slowly down hill.

***note to those with Audis: the CAs have tow points of failure: the rubber bushing at one and, and the ball joints that form the "virtual pivot point" at the other end. These dry out and fail; while the rubber slowly cracks and shrinks. The Ball joint end can be prolonged by injecting grease and sealing the boot at the first sign of tell-tale groaning.

I just did all my UCAs as well as strut mounts on the S6 when i did the coil-overs. Nice.

Grant

Check this link out, Grant; my indy likes their products a lot.

[www.elephantracing.com]

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/26/2012 10:22PM by Laz. (view changes)

Vertex Auto carries modified arms that are redesigned to last longer. I used them on my 986 in the past with good results.