Re: CV Boot Replacement

I have reviewed Pedro's CV Boot Replacement DIY a number of times and one of the first steps is to remove the hub nut to later extract the entire half-shaft. The repair to the boot is then done on a bench. That seems like the best approach, but I'm wondering if the boots can be replaced by just disconnecting the shaft at the transmission. The rest of the repair would have to be done with the shaft anchored on the hub end, but it looks like the repair is all done from the transmission end, anyway.

The reason I ask is my fear of not being able to adequately tighten the hub nut during re-assembly. I don't have any torque wrench that goes beyond 100 Ft lbs, and the spec is over 300.

If it can be done this way, is the challenge of doing all of this while lying on my back under the car going to make me wish I had taken the shaft out entirely?

to get at and clean, inspect and if ok repack the CV bearings.

When I had the cracked boots replaced on my Boxster a few months back that is what the tech did. He found the CV bearings just fine and repacked them and done.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

from doing this job on other cars ---

1. Its very hard to work under the car
2. its very hard to drive the inner joint off the half-shaft with out it being in a vice, and you swinging a hammer, or using a puller
3.you need not torque the axle nut. Get it "guttentitie" - get a 24" breaker bar and estimate 150 lb on it. I cannot imagine that it matter sif its 275 or 325 lb-ft. I never, ever used a torque wrench. In fact, i believe my Audi specified 150 lb-ft plus 1/4 turn or something similar

For reference - a large weight plate is 45 lbs. Push down equal to 3 of them

reference 2: i hand tighten my lug nuts all the time, and occasionally test with a torque wrench. I get a feel for ~90 lb-ft. This is 3X more.

I suggest torque to failure, then back off 1/2 turn :-)

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

I know someone scholarly engineer did all the math in some brilliantly lit Ikea-looking office, but I tend to agree that the torque value can be estimated. I like your method of estimating, but weight plates are not common items in my world. I'll have to substitute an equivalent amount of something I'm more familiar with --that's 9 banjos to me!.

Thank You!

... you could theoretically do it with the half shafts installed in the wheel carriers but it will be VERY difficult to remove the inside CVJ with the shaft attached.
There's very little room to work.
If you decide to try it take a dose of patience and let us know how it went.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

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Thanks for all the responses. You have helped me confirm my initial thought that I should remove the entire assembly. I'll let you know how it goes.

I agree with the comments about torquing the axle nut...should be simple with a breaker bar and a short length of pipe. The nut should not be re-used. I'm wondering if it is possible to remove the axle without removing the diagonal brace under the engine and swinging the wheel carrier outboard. Is there room enough to drop the transmission-end of the axle and pull it out of the wheel carrier in situ? Bearing changes & axle replacements could be done at half time on game day if this is possible. It is not terribly hard to bolt up the axle to the transmission working in the wheel well with a very long extension. Been there...done that.

The formula for torque is simple

weight * distance = torque

Which conveniently implies

distance = torque / weight

Since you know the torque you're looking for and your own weight you can plug that into the formula, for example

distance = 340 ft lbs. / 170 lbs. = 2 ft.

That means that if you stand on a horizontal wrench (or wrench with breaker bar) 2 feet from the center, you will get precisely 340 ft. lbs. Of course you should plug in your actual weight.

It takes a small amount of practice to get it right but in the end it is very easy.

which is a little gymnasitc, and requires significant strength. but true nonetheless.

If you simply lean on it only some % of your weight will transfer.

But its a great place to start!

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

That takes a lot of the mystery out of it. Thanks for the insight. It gives me a better sense of comfort that the nuts will be tight enough. Now, off to work on my "balancing on a pipe" skills...

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

This was one job I didn't want to do myself. My indy did one side, both inner and outer boots, for $200 cash (parts included). I'll be having the other side next month (if one side goes, the other side will go soon). The dealer quoted $900 just to have the outer boot done. Lol.