A few tips on doing the CVs |  |  |
|
Buying through this link, gets PB a donation. |
Products for your Boxster, Cayman and Carrera. |
 | |
| A few tips on doing the CVs grant - Thursday, 11 July, 2013, at 9:39:51 pm |
Many thanks to pedro for his basic write up on Pedrosgarage.com and his helpful clarifications.
Well, i have it 90% done. I want to buy a bit more grease tomorrow or Saturday.
First, getting these out is not too easy. It requires first removing the control arms, and i foudn that to be quite time consuming. Getting the ball joints to pop is a challenge, and counter-holding the ball joint shaft while removing the nut was also difficult, due to lack of access to counter-hold.
Here's the basic architecture of the axle.
- the outer joint is not removable. The boot can be serviced, and it can be re-packed with grease, but it wont come off. Th boot and clamps come off via the INNER which is removable.
- both the outer and inner joints are attached to a half-shaft with splined shafts at each end. They are both encased in metal housings. The inner ends have rubber boots to allow bending and contain the grease
- the inner (removable) joint's metal housing is two-part. The inner most part ( at the end) taps apart and back together to gain access to both sides of the joint, and to the c-clamp that hold it in place
- the inner joint is held in place by a c-sprint clamp that sits in a groove. It can be very easily opened and removed with c-clamp pliers. Craftsman makes a really nice adjustable, reversible set. about $20 (maybe less)
Once on the bench a few comments:
1 the tool of choice to remove the old boot clamps is without a doubt......a dremel with a cut off wheel. Easy.
2 since they use c-clamps and not spring clamps, the inner joint taps off very easily
3. having the joints in a metal case seems nice, but makes it harder to pack. I hope i got enough grease in. I certainly voided the air, but since it slides in and out that is a temporary state no matter what
4 The boots are a tight fit. Getting the big end over the CV joint housing required monumental wrestling, balancing the challenges of gripping a greased pig (greasy boot), much required stretch ( it looks too small, but works) and a delicate boot that you DONT want to harm with, say, a metal tool.
5 Boots part 2 - when you put on the 2nd boot (the inner) it goes on small side first. here's the catch - when you push it on, it wants to turn its inner lip[ inside out. Once there, you must remove it to pull it right-side-out. And all the grease etc.
6 Clamps. I'd get proper clamp pliers. I used dull flush-cutters, but i worried "how dull". Incidentally, despite several (3?) teeth, they only have one side - you cannot "adjust" them while loose.
This job was, in many ways the same and in many ways very different (details, details) from what i did on VWs and Audis 20-30 years ago. Gosh, now i feel old. let me get my cane.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2013 09:55PM by grant. (view changes)
Well, i have it 90% done. I want to buy a bit more grease tomorrow or Saturday.
First, getting these out is not too easy. It requires first removing the control arms, and i foudn that to be quite time consuming. Getting the ball joints to pop is a challenge, and counter-holding the ball joint shaft while removing the nut was also difficult, due to lack of access to counter-hold.
Here's the basic architecture of the axle.
- the outer joint is not removable. The boot can be serviced, and it can be re-packed with grease, but it wont come off. Th boot and clamps come off via the INNER which is removable.
- both the outer and inner joints are attached to a half-shaft with splined shafts at each end. They are both encased in metal housings. The inner ends have rubber boots to allow bending and contain the grease
- the inner (removable) joint's metal housing is two-part. The inner most part ( at the end) taps apart and back together to gain access to both sides of the joint, and to the c-clamp that hold it in place
- the inner joint is held in place by a c-sprint clamp that sits in a groove. It can be very easily opened and removed with c-clamp pliers. Craftsman makes a really nice adjustable, reversible set. about $20 (maybe less)
Once on the bench a few comments:
1 the tool of choice to remove the old boot clamps is without a doubt......a dremel with a cut off wheel. Easy.
2 since they use c-clamps and not spring clamps, the inner joint taps off very easily
3. having the joints in a metal case seems nice, but makes it harder to pack. I hope i got enough grease in. I certainly voided the air, but since it slides in and out that is a temporary state no matter what
4 The boots are a tight fit. Getting the big end over the CV joint housing required monumental wrestling, balancing the challenges of gripping a greased pig (greasy boot), much required stretch ( it looks too small, but works) and a delicate boot that you DONT want to harm with, say, a metal tool.
5 Boots part 2 - when you put on the 2nd boot (the inner) it goes on small side first. here's the catch - when you push it on, it wants to turn its inner lip[ inside out. Once there, you must remove it to pull it right-side-out. And all the grease etc.
6 Clamps. I'd get proper clamp pliers. I used dull flush-cutters, but i worried "how dull". Incidentally, despite several (3?) teeth, they only have one side - you cannot "adjust" them while loose.
This job was, in many ways the same and in many ways very different (details, details) from what i did on VWs and Audis 20-30 years ago. Gosh, now i feel old. let me get my cane.
Grant
Grant
gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com
Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 07/11/2013 09:55PM by grant. (view changes)
Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.