Re: 2000 Boxster Ignition Switch

I decided that it's probably a good idea to keep a spare ignition switch around for my 2000 Base.

I believe the part number is 4A0 905 849 B
Is there anything I need to pay attention to if I'm buying on on Amazon? Lots of different sellers @ different prices. I could also take a drive to my local Audi dealer - but that's not as convenient as opening the front door to a package.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Andrew

and is this a 'good enough' tiny screwdriver to throw in the console with the switch:

Small Screwdriver set on Amazon

My concern (in the top post) is that I'm going to need to make sure the part is 'right' because I'm not replacing the switch now - so when it breaks I'll have the part and can 'just do it' rather than potentially being stranded somewhere (which happened the very first time the switch broke on me years ago).

Andrew

I think I used something like this--[www.amazon.com]
If the correct one is too long, you could always cut it off.

Any comments on making sure I get the ‘right’ part via Amazon?

Try this one.
[www.pelicanparts.com]

Blackbird, that's for the reply.

I know that I had the whole assembly replaced (after warranty and without the dealer asking [grrr]). This part states "Only for Models with an Original Lock Assembly, # 996 347 017 05 or # 996 347 017 06., Can also update to late style lock assembly with late type switch, # 996 347 017 07"

Is that still a fit?

I think my discussing it here has caused the car to decide it wants a change - key is 'sticking' a bit when I turn the engine over (so I'll buy 2).

Still appropriate part#?


Andrew

There is a part # stamped on the lock assembly/housing. Not sure you can see it, maybe with a mirror. Does your dealer invoice have a housing part #? Maybe the dealer has a record of your transaction with the housing # he replaced.
Also, the ignition switch also seems to have a #. Not sure its a part # though.
Your solution to buy two different ignition switches would work if all else fails, but I thing you will figure it out.

Both components (mechanical and electrical) of the ignition were upgraded to improve their design. The old revisions are not compatible with the new ones.

For the electrical portion the housing on the older OEM version is black and the newer version is white. Note that it's the outer housing that differs in color. The back part with the tabs is always black.

4A0-905-849B - original part - black housing




4B0-905-849 - new part - white housing



The Pelican Parts one linked by Blackbird is the old version and probably won't work. But if you take a look at what's on your car you should be able to tell easily enough.

The blade on the screwdriver you linked to on Amazon is too fat for that application. The screw slot is quite small.

If I were you I would get two of them, replace the existing one, and keep a spare. It's a cheap part and the symptoms of it going bad are at best annoying.



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 11/15/2023 08:21AM by Boxsterra.
(view changes)

In your reply you stated: "Both components (mechanical and electrical) of the ignition were upgraded to improve their design. The old revisions are not compatible with the new ones". Can you clarify what you mean by old revisions are not compatible with the new one?

Or, asked another way.... If I removed my OEM ignition switch (2000 Boxster S) and replaced it with 4B0-905-849 (new part - white housing), will it work?

My mechanical component of the ignition switch is getting difficult to turn (only on the first start of the day). I plan to replace it very soon. Will my OEM key still work in the new ignition key slot? Or, is there something else you have to do/replace?

Ditto. This is my question as well. I understood that the 2000 used the B part.

This is the part I ordered (two).

[www.amazon.com]

I sent an email to my mechanic, but haven't heard back.

The ones I bought are black on the outside.

Andrew

I still haven't found time to get the car in to swap the ignition switch, but had a question.

When the engine is cold, the key is really hard to fully turn. After driving a while, if I stop, pull the key and put it back, it generally turns freely and starts.

Is there something I can spray into the key slot to help?
Is this a sign that the non-electrical portion of the switch is going?

Thanks all.

Andrew

Not certain it will cure your problem, but I would do no more than lighlly spraying your key w/silicone spary lubricant & then inserting the key in & out of the switch a few times. Might help some until you're able to replace the switch, but I would not think of this as a cure.

[www.pedrosgarage.com]

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 315,000+ miles: [garage.pca.org]
[www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

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Quote
Tony in Whittier
"If I removed my OEM ignition switch (2000 Boxster S) and replaced it with 4B0-905-849 (new part - white housing), will it work?"

No, it will not work, assuming by "OEM" you mean "original". The updated parts are all OEM.

Quote
Tony in Whittier
My mechanical component of the ignition switch is getting difficult to turn (only on the first start of the day). I plan to replace it very soon. Will my OEM key still work in the new ignition key slot?

Yes. The keyed ignition cylinder is separate from the mechanical portion.

Quote
AndyInNYC
I understood that the 2000 used the B part.

The 2000 came from the factory with the original black "A" part and that they didn't release the updated version until several years later. That part you linked should work, provided you have never upgraded the mechanical portion of your ignition.

My stalk had been replaced, so the 'B' is not the part for me.

My mechanic replaced the switch at my request; unfortunately it hasn't solved my problem.

When cold, the key is difficult to turn; when the car has been running, the switch turns fully without difficulty.

Any thoughts on cause and cure?

I'd hate to replace the column again.


Andrew

Did you compare the new one with the replaced one before the installation? My symptoms are the same as yours. A local Audi mechanic does work on the side. I asked him to check out the ignition switch replacement videos on YouTube, to see if he wants to replace mine.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2024 12:03PM by Tony in Whittier. (view changes)

My stalk was replaced long ago - just after the Boxster left warranty coverage.

Replacing the switch isn't a big deal - it just requires you to be a flexible acrobat - and I'm neither.

Since it is a cold engine only problem I don't know if spraying it will help - and I'm not sure what product to buy to spray the key mechanism either.

Is silicone spray lubricant the right product?


Andrew

Still trying to figure this out. I gave it a squirt of silicone lubricating spray.

If you have two keys, and haven't tried the alternate yet, see if that works better. Although the blade doesn't have teeth as such, perhaps the groove pattern is worn and misaligning with the "tumblers." (No idea what's in there!) Worn conventional keys can have this issue, and sometime pulling back a minute amount before turning helps. So, perhaps it's not either part of the switch. One or both your keys may need new blades.
(Edit: ) I'm reaching back 11 years here to my 2001, but doesn't your car have a valet key for the ignition only? Give that a try, too. The blade on that ought to be in great shape.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/23/2024 07:50PM by Laz. (view changes)