It'll be a lot easier if you...

i am considering making my own adjustable rods for mt boxster. i plan to buy an AURORA -HIMI rod ends, female counterclockwise 14mmX1.5, 14mm bore, a double headed L&R threaded dolt, and a std front outer tie rod end.

my challenge: 1) to mill or buy bushing that will reduce the 14mm bore to 12mm and fit in the typical 43mm receiver in the main tower that the old arm fits in
2) to find a double L&R threaded 14mmX1.5 bolt

any thoughts on my plan?

I never really looked. In my defense though these are I think hidden by panels and the front underbody panels have never been off the car and all the times the car has been in it has been for something at the other end, the engine/drivetrain, or something accessible from up top, like the fuel pump.

Anyhow, I'm at a loss to understand what you hope to gain. Also there is considerable risk in messing with the steering components. The stresses/forces the steering componts have to contend with are not insignificant and improperly chosen hardware that is not constructed to the standards consistent with what reliable and safe steering hardware is is a risk.

Sincerely,

MarcW.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/15/2011 05:51PM by MarcW. (view changes)

Marc,in this case i am dealing with the rear "track arm" which controls the toe adjustment. it consists of a bushing at the "side section" (i call it a tower) and a ball joint at the wheel "carrier". there is a camber bolt/washer assembly that controls the toe adjustment. my car shows signs of a wheel hit that has deformed the frame and makes adjustment impossible (.72 toe-in i can see the rubber left on the tarmac in my rear view mirror ) frame guy says to use adjustable links rather than pulling the frame (lots of money). i agree about the steering

Pedro, i will call thanks

A proper repair shop should have a Celette Bench and can rent the necessary jigs/fixtures for your car from Celette for not much money (last I heard the rental rate was $500).

The car's chassis/body/suspension and steering hardpoints can be checked and if found out of position can be pulled back into position.

You should at least get a quote on how much this would cost.

Granted it will not be cheap. There is the repair shop labor time to remove the car's running gear (wheels/tires) and possibly some suspension/steering components ont the damaged corner and place the car on the bench and there is the cost of the jig/fixture rental (which I covered above), then there is the time to for checking and pulling and rechecking and afterwards the removed running gear, etc., must be reinstalled and the car treated to a proper alignment.

The cost could approach $1000 (maybe more but a quote you need for sure) but it is the *right* way to fix the car.

What you are seeking to do is not without some risk and the car will never be quite right. I might add what you are doing is verboten by Porsche. Based on what I've been told Porsche would not consider the car properly repaired and thus not roadworthy.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

... purchase them from Tarett.
[www.tarett.com]
You can easily enough find the heim joints, and even drill and tap the threads.
The problem is trying to find the spacers needed.
You'll end up having to have them machined and in the end will end up with a higher cost.
Drop me an e-mail (Pedro@PedrosGarage.com and I'll get yo a good deal on any Tarett part.
Happy Boxstering,
Pedro

Pedro Bonilla
1998 Boxster 986 - 311,000+ miles: [www.PedrosGarage.com]
PCA National Club Racing Scrutineer - PCA National HPDE Instructor - PCA Technical Committee (Boxster/Cayman)

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