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CDC-3 with mount and cartridge - not known if it functions (picked up at swap meet) - $150 CDR-220, perfect condition - $250 Pictures here. Stefan Seattle stefan.isaacs at gmail dot comby artandscience - Parts for Sale
Tony, let me know if you might be interested. I have a pair of 2001S axles I took off at 55 thousand miles (bad boots) that I might part with. cheers, Stefan 360 202 1616 stefan.isaacs@gmail.comby artandscience - Parts for Sale
Never used shift kit for 2001 Boxster S. Comes with bushings and a separate housing so you don't have to bugger up your stock housing. My idea was to remove the stock housing and shifter and install the new shift kit with new housing. If I didn't like, I would just swap back - something you cannot do with the normal procedure (which destroys the stock bushings).. The kit was never installed andby artandscience - Parts for Sale
I would just use a dremel to take off the heads of the rivets. No chance of damaging the metal framework underneath with a drill. Then when they are exposed, they can be removed individually with a bit more care.by artandscience - Main Forum
Thanks for the thoughtful reply. I've actually worked on the car quite a bit over the last few years. So I recently did sparkplugs and sparkplug tubes, replaced the rear wheel bearings, and put in new axles (and boots). That, of course, required removing the exhausts a couple of times, and yes, I did snap a bolt (that I was able to replace easily enough). Good point on the hoses and water pumpby artandscience - Main Forum
Howdy, planning on replacing my clutch shortly. Drove a 2004 and was amazed at the difference. Apparently my clutch has been toast since I bought the car 4 years ago - who knew? Anyway, going to go with the Superkit from Pelican Parts. Will inspect RMS and IMS and decide what to do when I see their condition. I'm likely to do the RMS and maybe the coolant tank just because.. Also plan to changby artandscience - Main Forum
Hey all, need to crowdsource some wisdom. Just in the last couple of weeks I've seen some corrosion around the lock. This is making me nervous - wondering if this is normal and an application of Simple Green or WD40 is called for to clean it up? Looks suspiciously like the corrosion I might get on battery terminals. Could there be a short in my door? (No signs of it other than the electronic keby artandscience - Main Forum
Por911 - thanks very much. I may take you up on that. Over Christmas, the fuel filter was in the list as well as the throttle body. Hadn't thought about the injector o-rings at all. Are they easy to get at? I have access to a hoist (for things like my forthcoming clutch replacement). NB: have driven the car a couple of more times today and had no issues. cheers, S.by artandscience - Main Forum
Hi all, I was quite worried this am when my Boxster (56k miles) bucked a bit on startup. Motor started normally and then seemed to hickup/buck for probably 10 seconds. Seemed to clear up when I rev'ed the motor. Since this has never happened before, I'm wondering if anyone has an idea what this might be? I've got the AOS slated for replacement in the next two-three weeks - could that be the pby artandscience - Main Forum
So how do I know if the flywheel needs replacement? I'm planning on doing a clutch replacement (as well as RMS and IMS bearing, replacement of tranny fluid, etc.) over Christmas. I thought I would buy a "super kit" from Pelican but I only have 55k on my 2001 Boxster S (manual) and don't want to replace the flywheel unless it needs it. I cannot find the TSB that Wayne references on his Pelicanby artandscience - Main Forum
Yep.. was planning on replacing any wear items when they were in there, as well as the RMS. Also, use new hardware.by artandscience - Main Forum
WHY do you prefer the Balos? Price only? Quality of manufacture? Stopping ability? Longevity?by artandscience - Main Forum
LN = $619, stock should probably be $40-50 (haven't priced yet).by artandscience - Main Forum
Yep.. that was it. Dealer didn't charge me anything to fix it (got it done the same time as an alignment). Been a couple of days and it hasn't come on again so I'm quite sure it was my running the motor with the seats out that did it. cheers, S.by artandscience - Main Forum
Very good point. There was some time dilation in there I seem to remember. Got one working again but the other seems quite dead. Anyone know a source for keys with built-in remote for some reasonable price (<$50)? S.by artandscience - Main Forum
Seems like I need to replace front and rear brake discs. From what I can see on the Pelican Parts site, the best fit appears to be Zimmerman cross-drilled rotors. Is there general agreement that this is the closest replacement for the OEM discs? (I know there is a Brembo kit but it's out of consideration for wallet reasons.) cheers, Stefan in Seattleby artandscience - Main Forum
So the shop told me that my clutch needs replacing and that they hear some chatter from the flywheel as well so I should expect to replace that. I'm thinking that what I should do (55k on the car) is: replace clutch replace flywheel - or can it be "refaced" since it is so spendy? replace rear main seal replace IMS bearing replace clutch slave cylinder renew transmission fluid (manual) Anythingby artandscience - Main Forum
For some bizarre reason, neither of my electronic keys for the 2001 Boxster S is working. Is there some arcane ritual one must perform after changing out batteries? Also, a possibly silly question, should the battery positive side face up or down (visible or not?). Have tried it both ways to no avail. Going into the dealer Friday and I want to be knowledgeable about the options. cheers, Stefby artandscience - Main Forum
It seems like this is an not uncommon problem. I did the 60k service on my 2001 Boxster S a couple of weekends ago (replacing the main serpentine belt meant removing the seats and disconnecting the wiring harness under the seat) and now I have an airbag warning light that will not go out. I cleaned the contacts with electrical contact cleaner and reconnected them but no joy. So am I right thatby artandscience - Main Forum
I have the two rear axles of my 2001 Boxster S for sale. Very good condition. A couple of boots are torn - but the joints are still well-greased and I'm providing four new Porsche OEM boots. Buyer pays shipping. Your choice of how to ship. I'll also be selling them on EBay starting tomorrow so I reserve the right to sell to the first bidder who comes up with the $$. Pictures on request. regaby artandscience - Parts for Sale
So I finally finished the job yesterday. About 14hrs of work - 8 hrs to remove and 6 hours to reinstall. I R&R'd both rear axles and removed the wheel bearing carrier and had the bearing replaced with a new FAG ($131 for bearing and labor). Lessons learned: Complete removal of a part (the CAT converter section) of the exhaust system is required on both sides. Dropping the sway bar down (maby artandscience - Main Forum
Didn't even try. Last time I talked to him he wouldn't work on the suspension on my Boxster - 'cause it was watercooled. So I went to Gerber, and now Chris's German. I understand not working on water-cooled motors but not suspensions? cheers, Stefanby artandscience - Main Forum
From Harbor Freight. A little work with a bench grinder and it fit decently enough to separate the two ball joints and I removed the carrier this evening. What a relief. The bearing is toast as I suspected. Anyone know a good shop to install a new bearing in the Bellevue area? I suspect Barrier Porsche would be very expensive. I've found FAG and Timken bearings for about $50 each - I gatherby artandscience - Main Forum
Hi all - late night advice requested. Spent the most of the afternoon and early evening removing my 2001 986S axles and replacing with new ones (boots shot and CVs going). Noticed that the RR bearing was going as well (I had suspected this from noise and had an independent shop assess it). Being a cheap b*stard, I decided to do all this work myself. All went well until I got to the point thatby artandscience - Main Forum
I must be missing something. Tutorial seems very incomplete. Just a few photos of jacking the car up, and a reference to the B90 tools. Nothing at all about how to use them and no photos on actual replacement of the wheel bearing. Either section 103 is missing or the guy never finished the tutorial. thanks, S.by artandscience - Main Forum
Local shop thinks my RR wheel bearing is going (I had them road test it). So I plan to replace it myself over the Christmas holiday. I have access to a hoist, and I plan to replace all four axle boots at the same time. I'm thinking that I can remove the wheel carrier and take it to a shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new one inserted. Does that make sense? Everything else seemsby artandscience - Main Forum