Show all posts by userDiscussion of Boxsters and other Porsches |
You can definitely do it yourself, but it sounds like you have the lap and sub anchor points, which is all the installation needed (other than HANS anchors on the helmet). A Schroth Profi-II HANS (all 2" belts) harness and a HANS and you are good to go. I find the Schroth to be very good. The clip-in ends for the lap and sub belts will work with your eye bolt anchors. The shoulder belts will wrapby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I am skeptical of sealant claims, and boy do they hard sell that stuff. I think it's just an easy profit center for them. How would even know if they applied it or what it does? Do they just put it on like wax? For $900! I would not advise getting that. I got a clear bra on my car after repainting the rock-chip-laden front a couple of years ago and am very happy with it. I got the full hood, theby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I forget exactly which order you do it in, but I think you first undo the axle nut and back out the half axle, along with the control arm & trailing arm & drop link etc. (whatever else attaches to the wheel carrier), then you undo the 3 nuts for the shock top mount (under the clamshell), and that allows you to remove the whole shock + wheel carrier as a single unit, while leaving the halfby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Things are easier if you remove the caliper + brake disc, simply to reduce the amount of weight hanging from the strut & wheel carrier assembly as you wrestle with it. The caliper can be "stowed" out of the way on the diagonal brace bar and the parking brake cable is not an issue when doing that. You do not have to disconnect the parking brake cable.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
The Harbor Freight one looks and costs almost exactly like the one at the toolsource link there. Sub $25. Difference is that the HF tool is black metal. It works well and simply. You insert the foot carefully around the boot and then get a wrench or socket on the bolt, and tighten until it pops. The boot is safe from damage if you just insert the foot correctly around it. Sometimes it's a littleby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I have the Tarett rear adjustable toe links as well as the Tarett eccentric bolt replacement (the latter I installed myself as it's trivial to do). I think that if you aren't adjusting, have the range of adjustment you desire, and don't have eccentric movement, then obviously these are of no value. But for a race car... What I was told is: - The eccentric bolt replacement does away with all movby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
You have some good options available. I'd check the calendars for any of these organizations and see when they will be at Thunderhill, Sonoma / Sears Point, or Laguna Seca / Mazda Raceway. (Porsche Club)by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Good point -- That was indeed the other option, but was deemed more of a PITA to work on all those little axle retaining bolts deep in around the boot than to remove the axle bolt. YMMV.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
At $20, the price is right and it's plenty good enough.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
The rears are more complex because you have to detach the axle out of the wheel carrier (the big 340 fl/lb nut). The wheel carrier will be attached to nothing but the parking brake cable while you have the strut out for swapping. On both ends, I think you also have to pop the ball joint apart as well. The one that connects the control arm to the wheel carrier. We definitely did that when changinby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
That is an amazing concept, beautifully done.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I'm not sure about model year compatibility of your 2000S vs a 1997-1999 Boxster, but for parts that are compatible, you may find a great source in the Spec Boxster community. I went to quite a bit of effort to sell as many items as possible after I stripped the interior, but I am sure others have garages and cabinets full of that stuff, many in great condition, that they would love to get a fewby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I do agree with Pedro specifically about the advantage of having the tires out back -- when you remove them the trailer will sit down on the tongue. With my trailer oriented with the toolbox out back, I had it rock back and sit on the tail a couple of times upon removing the last tire, until I remembered to always put weight on the tongue before removing the tires.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Grant, are you still referring to the early spoiler? Accessing the 3 top bumper screws requires getting the spoiler out of the way. If you mean the 4 bolts (2 per side) that look like they hold the lifter elevators to the car, they aren't enough. The whole thing is bound together on the inside (motor/cables/mounting/elevators). If you remove those 4 bolts you'll just have a wobbly spoiler, stillby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I can say for the MY1998 986 it's relatively easy: - Remove six to eight various philips or torx or hex screws around the lower lip of the bumper. The outer pair are tucked up just near the top/end of the bumper panel in the wheel well. You may have more or fewer screws, and of different types, depending on work done by other mechanics.... - Raise the spoiler. Open the trunk. - Push the pin thruby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Now that my car is in Spec Boxster form, I won't be towing my tire trailer any more. In fact, the hitch no longer has anything to bolt to on my car even if I wanted to! So I need to get rid of the tire trailer. Let me know you're interested. Feel free to forward this info. I'm asking $500 and will include the hitch if you need it. I can't really say the trailer is "like new", but I've taken goodby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Parts for Sale
I've seen photos of that modification. I'd suspect there must be a good reason why someone would do it. Or it could be that some guy thought it up or saw it on another car, others followed suit, yet it doesn't help anything. When I removed the left side AC condensor, fan, & shroud, I took notice of where the radiator airflow goes, considering just that very modification. On its face I'm notby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Those are on the outside of the car just in front of the rear wheel well. I'm talking about the two rubber scoops hanging under the middle of engine/transmission area.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Thanks, Boxsterra. After much digging I found the right diagram. Although the diagram doesn't separately label the parts, the parts list on the right has them, unlabeled. Here's the diagram. What I am referring to are the rubber pieces that slide onto the leading edge of part #6 in the diagram. rear axle bracket parts diagram Seems to be part number 986 331 361 02 ( "Spoiler" ) listed after partby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
1. You mean the little cotter pin that goes thru a tiny hole in the big caliper retaining pin, right? You might try a hardware store with a good bolts & screws department, and bring one from the other side with you, or bring the caliper pin with you to match the cotter pin hole size to. I think I saw a selection of cotter pins in Home Depot's hardware section recently. If you mean the largerby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I noticed that one of the two rubber ducts in the center rear of the car is gone, and I've yet to locate a part number for these. I'm talking about the ones you see hanging below the middle of the car when driving behind a Boxster, that seem to route air flow from under the middle of the car up and around the transmission. Anyone know the part number?by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
My '98 transmission finally croaked last month and my local Porsche trained independent sourced a used transmission for me (from a place near you! www.mpusedautoparts.com) and got the car back to me within 5 days of my first phone call to him for well under $2000 out the door. Time will tell, but my used transmission works well and has already stood up just fine for a full race weekend, and whenby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
I was just replacing the cats on my car yesterday so I have the old ones right in front of me. You're right that those tube shields are not attached with any kind of bolt or clamp. They look to be bonded to the pipe at each end, and perhaps in the middle (there's an indentation), though if it's welded there's no visible sign of it on the outside. I would think that if you can identify where it'sby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Damn, Pedro! Sorry to hear that. Hope you keeping feeling a little better every day.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Victoracers are a great DOT-R track tire. I think the concerns about abrupt breakaway for track tires in general is way overstated. And for the Victoracers it is not an issue at all. They provide very good feedback. Unfortunately they became scarce in the sizes I needed last year. And now I need the RA1 as a spec tire (which so far is also pretty good).by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Smilin' and Dreamin'by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Easy fix for that, Doug, easy fix. Almost all the impressions will apply, including the yoga maneuvers.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
They are just little rivets. Just stick a big screwdriver or pry bar in there and pry each side until the rivet pops out. The dash and probably the shelf itself are stronger than the rivets by far, so they will not be harmed.by Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Yes, the lower reservoir is #8. I think the hard line enters at the back of it (not shown in photo) which is where the leak-prone fitting is. Perhaps making the heat problem worse is that the return line zig-zags around under the AC compressor, so it gets sandwiched between the AC compressor and the engine block, absorbing lots of their heat by near or actual contact. Wrapping that section with hby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum
Hard driving on the track can "overheat" the PS system. It's a not uncommon failure mode. It can result in melting of a particular plastic fitting where a metal high pressure return line feeds the lower PS fluid reservoir. When the fitting melts, the seal of this connection to the reservoir is leaky. Where it leaks is pretty much at the front top of the engine block -- top and dripping down theby Trygve (San Francisco, CA) - Main Forum