Show all posts by userDiscussion of Boxsters and other Porsches |
If your looking for all-seasons for the bmw, you might check out bridgestone re960as's. We ran them on an A4 and loved them, but this was not a choice for the Boxster. It is a more sport oriented all season tire, if one could be called that. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Just the opposite, the new tires and alignment really transformed the car(in a good way). Yes, the DWS is not as sport oriented a tire, but we were willing to trade that up for better cold weather driving abilities. The guy who did the work(a true craftsman in the trade) did not have any issue balancing them up, but he really dialed the car in, alignment wise. It felt like a different, and muchby por911(bc) - Main Forum
I did not think our trans mounts were quite as bad as they were. The difference was stunning, and we're not aggressive driver's. I think the original mounts sourced through Corteco just did not have the correct density down right. The newer gen versions feel better then when the car was new. I think people acclimate to the driveline slope, poor shifting, vibrations, and rattles as part of the cby por911(bc) - Main Forum
We went from Michelins to the Conti DWS (all-season version of the tire) and could not be more satisfied with the results. The car does not get tracked, or AutoXed, just errands or short trips. The fact the DWS handles cold temps better was a huge win for us. The dws is terrific in the wet so far, and in the pnw that is saying something. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
I believe the part is uniform(ie across 986/987/cayman) , and was updated to pt#987-375-023-05. Don't quote me, as they might have another for the "R" version. As someone who has replaced all the mounts on our 01 base, they have made improvements. I found all of ours had collapsed, and badly needed replacement. The shifting was vastly improved along with greatly reduced/eliminated rattles/vibratby por911(bc) - Main Forum
We have the Hardtop Carrier(part#000 044 000 59) which is slightly different, does not hold spare set of wheels/tires. It is quite handy for storage of the hardtop in the summer months, as it can be easily wheeled into a corner, out of the way. They are nice way to store the top when not in use, especially if you don't have loads of space. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
There is a "test", and you do need to lock the crank at a minimum. Sorry, I'm away from my tools, or otherwise I would take a pic of the factory crank lock pin(there is also one for the flywheel for the clutch operation). If memory serves, the test looks for deflection of 8 or 10mm, but don't quote me. It has been a bit since I've read through that piece of tech lit. For me, I would replace it foby por911(bc) - Main Forum
It is just inexpensive insurance and having them fail on these cars can be a pricey mistake. Even with cooling systems mods(GT3 center rad, 996 heat exchanger) on our car, I personally view the safe range for service life is 50k. Having said that, each to their own. I did not mention it before, you might consider replacing the tensioner, roller, and serp belt while in there. I find the rollers oby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Best wishes, health, and happiness to you both. Dump the Volvo, without a warranty, they can eat you alive. Again, congrats. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
I don't think the tiny bits(two) are anything to be concerned about, but it is good to check the filter after each change anyway. At 54k, I'd replace the following: -water pump (factory) -t-stat(factory) -coolant (factory) You might consider at that mileage, checking the condition of the fuel injector o-rings(these take a lot of abuse) and the drive line mounts. When the brakes are done, it iby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might check, there is a TSB(technical service bulletin) on this. We had this done on our 01 base during warranty. Sometimes the vent pipe needs to be re-positioned, along with a number of other procedures if warranted. I'll see if I can dig the tsb # number up tonight in my books. Sorry to hear, I know how aggravating it can be. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Change it out, it is time. I've change ours out a number of times on the families 01 base. I've found, especially with water cooled flat engines(subaru, porsche, etc.), changing out the coolant during normal intervals saves many a headache down the line(ie head gasket, heater core, early rad failure, etc...). Anytime I'm changing the coolant out, I use it has an opportunity upgrade certain coby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might consider checking the following if it is certain that the noise is out front: -P/S fluid (Pentosin 11s) -front strut bearings -sway bar bushings regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
With the age and miles, I would replace it. When the center flex section gets tired on them, they really let a lot of vibrations through, as well as offering up a rough idle. Yes, it is spendy, but worth it over the long haul. I would probably replace some of the ancillaries in the bell housing area, guide sleeve(wt seals), pivot, and check the rms. Have them use new hardware(pressure plate anby por911(bc) - Main Forum
We found a similar result when I replaced both the motor and trans mounts. I replaced ours at about 50k, and they were all shot. The difference afterwards was striking. Congrats, that is quite a handful of work. You might consider replacing the AOS, I found the newer version is greatly improved over the originals that were installed from the factory. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
It might be worth taking a closer look to see if it is certainly coming from the front crank seal or pump cover. You might check your secondary crankcase breathing system to see for coking/clogging which might cause higher then normal internal crankcase pressures. As others have stated , if the crank is moving around due to what ever issue(vibrations-bad mounts, poor state of tune, out of balanby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might try Suncoast Motorsports Porsche in FL, I believe they sell the manual trans gearbox oil at a discount(ie $28 per). It is the only stuff I've found that really works in these gearboxes properly, as it should. I would also recommend Pentosin DOT4 for the brake fluid, which be had through multiple distributors, Suncoast might carry that as well. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Nice, my favorite is the sign that says zero wait at the border. ; ) And or, it could be the sign that says "ferry at 24% capacity for next sailing". regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might consider pressure bleeding the clutch system with a friend, or assistant. If this fails, then it rules out the slave and master as long as the slave pin was put in the proper position. If the afore mentioned has been done and there are still issues, then the pressure plate was probably improperly torqued down. Those bolts and threads need to be clean and torqued down in a certain pattby por911(bc) - Main Forum
It might be any number of things. Replacing one of those bearings properly can be quite a task. The housing might not have been heated up, or the bearing cooled before to avoid stress upon installation. There are also many aftermarket (read: made in china) bearings out there that are absolute trash, OEM is the only way to go. If one of the previous bearings seized in the housing , or was improperby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Generally, it is pretty easy to tell if the cats are starting to go(breaking apart internally, rattling around in canister). Put the car up in the air, and start it when it is cold, get under the car, the sound or rattle is pretty evident. For some reason, there were a few years to these cars where Porsche sourced some poor quality exhaust parts. If your secondaries are starting to go, you mightby por911(bc) - Main Forum
I've used wurth products for years and HHS2000 is great stuff for certain apps. For the ball sockets, I would use a high pressure grease. HHS, would do well on the gear but I would use their dry lube on the joints. HHS does dry, but will collect dirt, depending on where it is applied. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Thanks Marc for posting your updates and specs on your 986. It astounds me the durability of these cars over the long term. Hopefully, we can get similar mileage, and reliability out of our MY01. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
On our 01(base) it was a combo of things. I replaced all the drive line mounts(front-motor, 2-rear-gearbox) at around 50k which were surprisingly bad considering the car gets very mild usage(no abuse, DE's, or track, etc..). This got rid of a whole host of vibrations, rattles, poor shifting, and got the car to feel more connected(ie tight). I also changed out the gearbox fluid and upgraded to tby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might consider seeing if there is a place(local to you) that would rent the tools, if possible. The RMS tool is fairly cost prohibitive at around $500+ from Porsche. If your going to upgrade your IMS bearing while in there, L &N engineering(or the like) might have a rental program for the upgrade. There might be someone local to you that is willing to rent them out. For info, I personalby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might go through your Bentley manual and the factory manual for procedures.torque specs/special tools required. It is not a bad job, but it is worth taking your time with it as issues will usually crop up(corroded hardware, seized, etc.). Special tools needed off the top of my head are: 1) flywheel lock (nice for torquing down the flywheel) 2)clutch centering mandrel (use the metal factory veby por911(bc) - Main Forum
I found both the motor mount and trans mounts were gone in our base 01 in the 40k range. They made a huge difference after replacement along with a 997 shifter install. Before the mounts, the drive train felt as if it was sliding around, surprising how bad they were. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
You might consider the Conti Contact DWS(ie-all season) tire. We were in a similar situation, and after much research went with the afore mentioned tire with great results. They dead quiet on the road compared to our old Michelin PS2's and the ride quality is much better. We like the fact that when the temps go down, or we get rain and or a bit of snow, it is not a complete emergency to get theby por911(bc) - Main Forum
Not knowing the year, or miles on the car, you might consider replacing the fuel injector o-rings(about $75 in parts) on the car. When the seals deteriorate, they can cause a whole host of emission related CELs which are a bear to track down. I put a Fabspeed cat bypass on our 01(base) and love it. Also, you might consider going back and posting the specific CEL. regardsby por911(bc) - Main Forum
I guess, if it were me, I'd syphon from the pump access port if you have to. There is a pressure vent flap in the feeder hose/line to the tank which is moderately sensitive. You might consider the dry gas route, then techron. I don't like removing all the gas from the tank by the pump, as it will dry surge and prematurely wear out the pump reducing it's service life. In some, I've just removedby por911(bc) - Main Forum