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99 Boxster I had a new window put in back in 2003. It has lived its life. It is starting to separate in a couple of places from the cloth. I called a place here in the Cleveland area and they said that to sew a new one in, they'd have to take the top off. At that cost (about $600), I might as well buy a new cloth and replace it myself as it is starting to show wear. So my questions are: 1.by Greg - Main Forum
An update. The issue appears to be that things are fitting tightly inside of the key body. When I take the board and battery out and press the buttons directly, they work 100% of the time. When placed back inside of the head fob, it doesn't. So I put some paper between the battery and the cover to make things fit tighter. Bingo, it works.by Greg - Main Forum
I will give that a try. I think you may be right about the contacts, though. I'll check those out too.by Greg - Main Forum
This issue appears to be one that has gotten worse over the years. It started with the fact that I had to get closer to the car to use the key fob to lock and unlock the doors. I replaced the battery, but no luck. Now it is rare that I can lock or unlock the doors remotely. The light on the key fob appears to flicker like normal when the button is pushed. The rear trunk feature still works rby Greg - Main Forum
Get well soon. But enjoy the pain meds while you can!by Greg - Main Forum
An update: I actually was able to use the one wheel aligment tool successfully to take the wheel off and put it on. Didn't even know that is what that tool was for!by Greg - Main Forum
See, I knew there was a better option. Thanks, guys!by Greg - Main Forum
Whenever I have remove my wheels, it is always such a pain, especially the fronts. I get all the bolts out and then I have to rock it back and forth until the wheel comes off. Sometimes the wheel drops off leading to less than desireable results. Any tips?by Greg - Main Forum
Replaced my AOS. Not too difficult. I was surprised that my new AOS from the dealer already came with the bellows piece, didn't need a new one. Didn't have a tough time getting the new one on with the spring clamp vs using a hose clamp. Still had some smoke the first few times I started it, but the smoke got less and less and more importantly there was no longer any rough idling. I also manaby Greg - Main Forum
I just did mine. Took about an hour to take off and an hour to put on. I did not clean my throttle body, however.by Greg - Main Forum
You do realize that you lost 10 hp by removing those heat shields! Well, I found u-clips and bolts. Had washers already. Cost was $2.10. Fastened on tight. We'll see how they last.by Greg - Main Forum
Never thought of that, Frogster. That is a good point.by Greg - Main Forum
Thanks, Marc. I will keep that in mind. If I find something suitable, I'll post and let others know.by Greg - Main Forum
Thanks, Marc. In this case, the fasteners pass through larger holes in the head shield and a bracket on the catalytic converter and do not screw into them. The nut/bolt combo just has to match each other.by Greg - Main Forum
Found the problem to a rattle I've had for a while. All 3 fasteners for the heat shield over the catalytic converter on the driver's side are gone. The clips that the screw/bolts go into are still there but quite rusted. Do others here just buy the replacement items from Porsche or just go to the local hardware store for some nuts, bolts and washers? The stock items from Porsche are a littleby Greg - Main Forum
Thanks. I did pull it out completely. Took about an hour but tore the bellows doing it. Anyway, the part number on it is 996-107-023-01. Still the new type, huh? Is my assessment that the small puddles of oil in the j-tube ends and the connecting ports on the throttle body and AOS indicate a failed AOS? Thanks for all your help guys. A great benefit from this exercise is that I discoveredby Greg - Main Forum
An update. I pulled the upper breather line. There was a little puddle of oil in both ends of the line as well as the port on the AOS that connects to it. I think that settles the issue, huh? I would say that from the pictures below, my AOS is the newer type, right?by Greg - Main Forum
I'll pull mine tonight and compare with pictures of the new ones on line and see from there. If I have to, I'll post a picture.by Greg - Main Forum
Got it, won't run the engine. I don't suppose you have a picture of the old vs the new AOS? Let me put it this way, I bought my car in 2003 and have not replaced the AOS. So I'm thinking it is likely that I have the older type. Interested note. In the technical manual, Porsche refers to the air oil separator as two devices inside of the oil pan.by Greg - Main Forum
Thanks, Pedro. That was my thought after doing some research last night. The rough engine at idle is likely due to issues with the vaccum. Usually the RPMs are around 800 but I would see it go to 1000 and 1200 just to maintain a smooth idle. One of the pages that discussed the issue showed a picture of smoke pouring out the back on startup that looked just like my car. I figured I would testby Greg - Main Forum
Just took my 99 Boxster out of the garage here in NE Ohio. After about 20 miles, I noticed while idling at a stop, the car ran a little rough. Drove fine the rest of the time. Next day drove again to work (13 miles) and noticed the same. After work, I started the car and a puff of white or light blue smoke came out. Same rough driving. This morning I went to start the car and a big puff ofby Greg - Main Forum
QuotePetee_C I had a similar problem last year. I took the inner skin off the door and it turned out that one do the pins in the connector to the door lock actuator was a wee bit loose. The microswitch in my door actuator is also wearing but it's still got a bit of life left in it. In addition to the lock LED on and horn honking when unlocking. My window would go down the 1/2" when openning tby Greg - Main Forum
Ah! When I looked in there, it looked like 9 screwed into 12 but I could only get my hand on it and it wouldn't move too easily.by Greg - Main Forum
Marc, Are you talking about part 14 on this page:by Greg - Main Forum
See this page: Am I disconnecting part 9 from 12, removing 9 from the handle or removing 12 from the mechanism? 12 connects to part 14 on this page:by Greg - Main Forum
Pedro, I've peeled back the liner and gotten my hands in there and looked around. I see where the mechanism connects to the outside handle. However, I can't figure out how that disconnects. Any help?by Greg - Main Forum
Well, Marc, you've got me convinced that you could be correct. Do you have a rough guess where the door lock mechanism is located? Is it attached to the latch? If you have a picture of it, that would be very, very helpful. Also, I'm assuming both doors have their own lock mechanisms, right? Yes, closing the door when the window has not lowered does scare the crap out of the passenger!by Greg - Main Forum
Marc, Thanks for the reply. When the door is malfunctioning, neither the inside handle nor the outside handle with drop the window. A couple of times someone has opened it forcing the window out of the groove in the convertible top. How it didn't break the window, I don't know. The window would still stay up and not drop. The only way to close the door would be to lower it with the window sby Greg - Main Forum
So when the weather gets dry, I have this issue with the passenger door. The first signal is the red light on the door lock button on the dash. The 2nd signal is that when I unlock my car it will beep twice. Finally, if the top is up and my window is up, it won't drop down when I start to pull on the handle. I'm 99% sure it is the switch in the door latch. I pulled the negative terminal on tby Greg - Main Forum