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I do understand that, but in this case clearly no. All was well. I change my fluid with 600/660 every year. (have to as you know0. I have never even come close to(from feel) to a soft brake pedal. Changed fluid before. trip to WGI. Used wet method. After a couple laps pedal got soft nd within a lap went to the floor before turn 1. A pump or 3 got me safely through, but this was absolutely fby grant - Main Forum
Hi Pedro, indeed too long. While I know those risks exist I think they are small, and I had an actual case of contamination (not sure if it was dirt or moisture) in my brake fluid. The only two possible sources were a) form the factory (unlikely) or b) from the motive, so I am gun shy. I recently bought some cheap brake fluid to thoroughly run through the clean the motive of any debris - includiby grant - Main Forum
There is a max line. There is also a MIN line. With a flashlight I looked for anywhere that air could get in below the MIN line and the first one I found ( mot clear what it is) is a line running through the firewall toward the pedal assembly or dash. I dont want to flirt with this, so above that is the mold line where the reservoir goes from wide and "squares" to narrower and more irregular. Iby grant - Main Forum
First, it's been a long time since I have been here. My bad and "HI" to all. Now on to my question. I'm doing a brake fluid exchange ointment my 2016 GT4 and, having had a bad experience once with corroded fluid, prefer for safety to use the "dry" method in which the Motive only pressurizes the reservoir, it does not push fluid in. The fluid comes from the reservoir and must be topped up perioby grant - Main Forum
They want $700-1200 depending.... On EBAY i have one for $270, but that's still a pile of scheklesby grant - Main Forum
I damaged the one i have. LMK ASAP if anyone has one - glenahan - at - gee-mail dot comby grant - Main Forum
the various plastic pices that hold the plastic mini mud guard that forms the lower front corner of each rear wheel arch? Mine tore off and the fasteners are lost or perished. Link to ad of entire mudflap (which i do not need, only need to re-attach). TY, Grantby grant - Main Forum
if you don't fill, it takes a little longer to get oil flow and pressure. What' the flip (negative) side? I see very little - pour it in, screw it on. Grantby grant - Main Forum
after about 120 seconds of watching a slick, meaningless intro, i quit and still have no idea what it does. My two cents. Avoid.by grant - Main Forum
.. although i broke two on 986s (over many years, both used hard)by grant - Main Forum
... on a track car So actually, i have the tow hook adapter and leave the tow hook in and if pulled over, explain the situation :-) The issue is that the tow hook to car is very stiff and the place to tow hook adapter is fragile.by grant - Main Forum
I like to take out the pads,and "fully" extend the pistons (put something in to prevent them from popping out, maybe a worn-out pad or backing plate). Then clean with brake cleaner on all moving surfaces. Then i apply some brake fluid as lubricant and further solvent. In and out. Ought to be good. Eventual with enough age you might need to rebuild with new dust covers & seals. Check thatby grant - Main Forum
1 you know the head unit works since the radio plays 2 you could have a selector switch issue but that is very very rare 3 it powers up, so power is to the CD unit and it's turning on 4 soooo 4.1 connect another player to the input (if it is connectorized with RCAs or something) and see if THAT plays. All AUX inputs are the same - somewhere between 1-2v rms (should be 1 but many over drive them)by grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
Good morning ladies and gents, I was under the Boxster (986 base) yesterday, and while there a loose, perforated tube of metal caught my eye. It encircles the exhaust, directly behind the cat and manifold. It is loose and rattling. Does anyone know what this does, or before it was compromised, did? Trying to decide if i can treat it like the rear view mirror in the gumball rally :-) Speakinby grant - Main Forum
outside chance, but that could explain the 2nd fob on my old, old race car. #1 works. #2 does not. Mechanical key works in both. No obvious damage, A lifted joint would be hidden. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm TY Grantby grant - Main Forum
what of all those changes/repairs you mentioned were done coincident with the arrival of the vibration - in other words, can we find a correlations between a change and the vibration. I do suspect you have a mount - one of the three - failing. Or somethign as simple as a mis\fire?by grant - Main Forum
1. the new plastic clamshell contains buttons. They may be stiff. Ensure you are getting good (not intermittent) contact. 2. this is not an explanation, but a similar issue: i did mine. Now, sometimes when i insert and turn the key there is a lengthy delay before engagement. But it works. I cannot explain it. Grantby grant - Main Forum
.. but does require some work and soldering skillby grant - Main Forum
The tiny surface mount switches on my circuit board died. Its pretty normal. So i got a new head assembly and moved over the metal key, the "pill" (RFID) and the circuit board. But first i repaired the circuit board, mostly putting new surface mount switches on it. That way it was an easy re-programming. I will send oyu the article i wrote for NNJR-PCA Porscheforus on this if you send me yourby grant - Main Forum