Thanks guys. I will check out the obvious things out this morning. The symptoms in the car were not

The bearing carrier surface was not impacted. The pitting on the inner side of the outer raceway was about 1/2" long of the ~total 6" inside circumference. The process took less time than estimated, so the repair cost was lower.

I took the car to work today and about 1 mile from home, I got a CEL. 3 codes: P1126, P1133 and P0343. The wheel bearing process included a removal of part of the cat and exhaust system. Could this removal have initiated the CEL? I called the mechanic who said that I should reset the light and see if it returns.

P1126- cyl. 4 thru 6. O2 sensor range 1. P1133- Oxygen sensor adaptation lower load range. Bank 2 above limit. P0343- Camshaft position sensor A circuit. High input (Bank 1 or single sensor).


Thanks.


Tony

I've replaced many wheel bearings and I don't recall ever disassembling any part of the exhaust system. But I agree that the sensors and wires are in that area. Also, shock can do a sensor in. But there is no point in spending a bunch of diagnosing the codes unless they are real (in which case they will come back).

Today I helped replace two rear wheel bearings on a 1999 Boxster and on one side we disconnected only the toe arm. On the other side we disconnected the toe arm, the drop link, and the lower control arm. That's it.

Quote
Tony in Whittier
The bearing carrier surface was not impacted. The pitting on the inner side of the outer raceway was about 1/2" long of the ~total 6" inside circumference. The process took less time than estimated, so the repair cost was lower.

I took the car to work today and about 1 mile from home, I got a CEL. 3 codes: P1126, P1133 and P0343. The wheel bearing process included a removal of part of the cat and exhaust system. Could this removal have initiated the CEL? I called the mechanic who said that I should reset the light and see if it returns.

P1126- cyl. 4 thru 6. O2 sensor range 1. P1133- Oxygen sensor adaptation lower load range. Bank 2 above limit. P0343- Camshaft position sensor A circuit. High input (Bank 1 or single sensor).


Thanks.


Tony

to me. My recollection is the rear wheel bearings are a bit easier to replace than the fronts and the fronts obviously require no exhaust system removal to get out.

That the error codes appeared out of the blue after this work... I'm going to guess the codes and wheel bearing R&R (well, the exhaust/converter R&R portion of it) are related.

However, I'm not at the car. One of the things I would do would be to get the car safely in the air and start the engine and let it idle and check the exhaust system -- and especially the area that was touched -- for any exhaust leaks, cold, warm, or hot. Exhaust systems can be pretty tight at some temps and leak at others, so you can't assume no leaks cold means no leaks hot and vice versa.

Also, check for a cracked oil filler tube and a leaking oil filler tube cap.

Before you start the engine find the camshaft position sensor connections and carefully visually inspect them and the surrounding area for any signs they've were touched during the bearing R&R.

If you find signs of them having been touched the possibility then becomes a connector was not fully connected.

Whether you want to try to address this yourself, or have your mechanic do this is up to you.

My thinking would be if -- worse case -- the connector was damaged and you found this by attempting to 'fix' the connection by disconnecting the connector and reconnecting the connector the mechanic might argue you did the damage.

There is the possibility the camshaft position sensor is acting up and the fuel adjustment and error codes that results is the DME attempting to compensate for the absence of expected camshaft timing adjustment.

(I've seen some rather dramatic short term fuel trim action from my car after the VarioCam solenoid/actuator started acting up. When I mentioned to this to my tech friends I was told this was to be expected and another sign the VarioCam solenoid/actuator was bad.)

Clear the codes. Drive the car as you would normally. Drive it a lot, relatively speaking, to give the DME plenty of time to flag any problems.

If there is something going on the CEL will come on and the error codes you read will help id the source of the problem.

Be sure you read them all and check for any pending codes too.

Write the codes down. Do not rely upon your memory.

Just to cover my you know what, if at any time the engine starts acting up, running rough, the idle speed starts to swing up and down, or (God forbid) start making scary noises, shut the engine off as soon as you can and do not run it again until the source of the symptoms is id'd and addressed.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

dramatic before and after the CEL. Every time I came to a stop the idle stayed at ~1100 rpm. After a few seconds, it slowly dropped down to the the normal idle speed ~850 to 900.

The mechanic removed the diagonal brace and long flat brace, as well as part of the exhaust system. I am not sure why. Check out the pics.


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Tony

if the battery was disconnected during the wheel bearing R&R you will need to recalibrate the e-Gas system.

This is done -- at least with the 2000 to 2004 models -- by with the ignition key off and your foot *off* the gas pedal, turn the key to the on position. Do not advance to the start position!

Leave the key on for 60 seconds. Use a watch with a second hand or a digital seconds time piece.

After 60 seconds turn the key to the off position and leave off for at least 10 seconds.

Then start the engine.

Done.

This might -- again though it is a long shot -- address that idle goofiness.

If it doesn't at least it tells you there is a problem and it needs to be id'd and fixed.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

a look at it tomorrow.