Yeah, that's what I did too. Works fine. *NM*

So- I've been BUSY this weekend! I changed my IMS bearing. Also, new RMS seal, water pump, thermostat, belt and repacked CV joints. The bearing I pulled out looked almost new, no signs of wear or excessive play. The clutch still had about 60% surface (on 60K car). It was a Sachs clutch, which is aftermarket, correct? I bought the car with 40K on it, and I am beginning to think the first owner already did the clutch and bearing.



The bearing I pulled out was marked Germany on the cover, so I assume it was OEM. Anyway, the bearing change was the easiest part of the whole operation, and the special tools from LN worked incredibly well.

Question on clutch/flywheel reinstall: I need to hold the crankshaft stationary while torquing the flywheel bolts. Can I do this with the pin used to find TDC? I am worried that it would put too much strain on the pulley or mounting bolt.
Question on CV boots: The boots I got from Pelican were significantly smaller than the installed ones (Length and diameter). I tried to install them, but ended up putting the old ones back on Are there different sizes for ans S and a base?

one of the teeth gaps in the flyweel with the lock body bolted to the engine block using one of the holes that is used to bolt the bellhousing to the engine block.

As you rightly note the pin would put too much strain on the pulley or more likely on the pin itself and shear it in two.

Update: For that 'tooth' read 'teeth'.... I looked through my Boxster shop manual and you want tool '9538/1' which gets secured with a M 12X50 bolt. There is a caution: Do not use the toothed segment to undo the belt pulley, use only the special tool 'holder 9593'.

A drawing shows the toothed segment bolted to the engine on on the 1-3 cylinder bank (the right hand bank when facing the back of the engine) and bolted down at not quite the '3' position.

Sincerely,

MarcW.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/19/2011 03:19PM by MarcW. (view changes)

I went to buy the special tool, which is about the size of a quarter. The dealer wanted...wait for it... 245 Euro (~325 Dollars)! Needless to say, I used a prybar and a bellhousing bolt. Worked like a chanp!

though that I think I should point out.

The strain on the bellhousing bolt in the engine block can cause the block to crack. With that admittedly very expensive tool the leverage is kept very close to the engine block face and the fact the lock is bolted down securely helps spread the load so cracking is very very unlikely.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

I can't see the tool putting less strain on the bellhousing. It is still supported by one bolt, and the flywheel is the same distance (fore/aft and laterally) from the bellhousing. The difference should be minimal, but the tool would definitely be easier.

I plan on contacting LN with a suggestion. The tool kit they sold with the IMS bearing was AWESOME. It could be improved, however, by including a flywheel holding tool and the three setscrews to hold the IMS in place. It might add a few dollars to the price, but would save the customer a trip to buy some small pieces.

Charles Navarro, if you read this, please let me know, and I won't duplicate it to LN. great product, BTW.