Re: And speaking of CV joints...

While changing the gearbox oil on my 2000S (97K miles), I was greeted by 3 torn CV boots. I was last under my car in January and all was good. Anyway, I plan to do the work myself as I have access to a lift. I also plan to to the passenger side wheel bearing, having already done the drivers side last November.

When I did the work last November, the only real difficulty was with the reassembly of the parking brake cable through the wheel hub to the ratchet mechanism.

Couple of questions...

1. Is it correct that I can leave the parking brake cable in place for the drivers side (R/R axle only)?

2. On the passenger side, will loosening the parking brake cable in the interior give me enough slack to make it easier to disconnect and connect the ratcheting mechanism? Is there a different (better way to mess with it? BTW, the wheel hub has to come off as I do not have the SIR tool (but I do have access to a 50 ton hydraulic press)!

3. What is the correct torque value for the six allen head bolt that attach the inner side of the axle to the transaxle?

Thanks!

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

I cannot believe the range of price for buying a complete half shaft! High end that I found was just under $800 a side for new, OEM to a low of $45 a side for new knock off (GSP from Adavance Auto). Used or refurbished shafts ranged from $125 to $350 per side.

I cannot justify spending $800/side for OEM as my car is now 11 years old. If my rebuild doesn't go well I'm not sure what other option I'll go with.

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

finally split the Porsche tech told me the bearings would be ok with a clean and repack, though he did say he'd inspect them just to be sure. I at first wanted new shafts but at $908/each rather quickly I changed my mind and gave the tech the go-ahead to clean and repack the existing bearings. After about 5K or more miles everything appears to be ok.

Oh, the half-shaft bearings are original and had around 240K miles on them when I had the work done.

Sincerely,

MarcW.

Take a look at a website called rockauto.com for parts

Joe

Thanks. I've purchased lots of parts from rock auto as I have lots of cars with for teenagers and a working wife (not to mention an 84 Alfa...).

As far as the CV joint issue is concerned, I did not recognize the vendor for the half shafts. I did buy the axle nuts from them (as I did when I replaced rear wheel bearing last fall). I purchased my CV boot kits from AutohausAz. Autohaus has free shipping on any orders over $50. Given that the 4 boot kits totaled about $39 (shipping to my local was estimated at $12), I added some brake fluid to get my total to just over $50.

I hope to rebuild my half shafts this weekend if all my parts arrive.

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

I agree with Mark on the clean/repack the CV joints -- and I'm sure you will do a thorough inspection of the balls and material in the CV for pitting or dulling of the surfaces. These things last a very long time with some grease and maintenance - but one little pit means failure in the future. However, the CV has a good warning noise and vibration when it starts to go...

I found taking the handbrake loose inside the car makes it so much easier to work on the rear hubs.

Good luck on your work...and thanks for supporting AutohausAZ (not associated with them - just a good Arizona business)

Roy Turner
Phoenix, AZ
2002 Boxster S Cobalt/Blk/Blk

If you're having problems fitting the parking brake mechanism in the hub, the problem may be with the swivel joint at the end of the cable. That joint can become corroded and stop swivelling.

I guess I should have phrased it better. I understand the ratchet mechanism is linked to the handle.

I am referring to the end of the cable at the wheel hub. The cable is attached to a lever mechanism that is resessed into the hub. It is difficult to get enough access to the cable and lever in order to disconnect the cable prior to removing the hub. Actually, I had a tougher time reconnecting the cable when I resinstalled the hub.
How do I get more slack in the cable to allow the hub end of the cable and the lever to get clear the front of hub so I can remove/connect the cable to the lever?

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

All the little bits that can rust, no matter what protection the main sheet metal pieces have.

Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?

You are correct. I didn't really pay much attention to the material but luckily, corrosion is not an issue with my car!

dghii
2000 Boxster S 6speed 112k miles

My 2000 S has now 180K miles and I live outside of Philadelphia that, while not the Great White North, does use salt and brine on its roads in the winter. I do drive my car all year 'round swapping summer with winter tires so my car may be a good indicator on the corrosion resistance of these cars.

The verdict? Well I am pretty darn amazed. The only damage from corrosion that I can directly attest to is the heat shields. When they go, they do make a very entertaining noise. Other than that, I really can't say what damage has been done. I have replaced various suspension parts due to the clunking etc.... but that is pretty much normal wear no? I should ask my mechanic later this week when I see him for an oil change about it.

When I was younger I would deliberately drive "upstate" if the forecast called for snow, packing my Honda's snow tires in the trunk and change as soon as the precipitation started. That car, an admittedly flimsy* '88 did have several bolts, including the heat shield's, and other bits rust. The rear drum mechanisms also got flaky and eventually even the entire rear quarter panels were changed out. The Boxster got caught out only a couple times, and wasn't exactly confidence inspiring with summer tires anyway.

*The doors would bind if you tried to open them with the car jacked up.

Minus 40 degrees... Is that Fahrenheit or Celsius?