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Use T-connectors to splice into the parking light bulb's brown & gray wires. The actual connector package is pictured below; make sure the connectors are capable of splicing 22-gauge wire. The final step is to plug in the headlight assembly and test; if the LED bulb or strip do not light, just reverse polarity - I had to do this for both. To reverse polarity on LED parking bulb - just unplby Kimo - Main Forum
Use the heat shrink wraps, instead of electrical tape, to secure connected wires together; use a lighter to shrink the wraps. My LED-strip wires were not long enough. You can also use the wraps to organize wires together, to assist in feeding them through difficult areas. I used 22-gauge solid wire to take advantage of its rigid property to help with placing wire where you want it.by Kimo - Main Forum
The LED strip comes with 3M adhesive at its bottom side. Make sure you know which side the LED side-emitting element lights from before securing with hot glue, and route the wire along the side, under weather strip and through the fog light access cover, and towards the back of the headlight assembly. Also, tap into the parking light wiring inside the back end of the headlight assembly; you wilby Kimo - Main Forum
LED bulbs can be purchased at many internet sites. I've replaced all parking lights with LEDs to greatly reduce battery consumption. LED side-emitting strips are cheapest on "eee" bay. You'll need 2x 12-inch strips, but ensure the lights emit from the side to have the desired effect, below. I ordered the 24-inch strip and cut it in half, which worked out great because both ends had their own lby Kimo - Main Forum
I found this link on my last email from Suncoast: Porsche 960 Update Nickname: FeFi = Ferrari Fighter I guess calling it a Cayman 4-Turbo is too much for the 911 purist; no clue if a convertible is planned, which of course should be more expensive than the coupe...Boxster is still best bang for buck. The 960 is reportedly a mid-engine design, considering it is designed to go against the Ferraby Kimo - Main Forum
"...if you disassemble the inner CV Joint, remember that the ball hub has a camfered inner end that must face toward the axle after you re-grease it and install it into the ball cage, then into the CV Joint." I'm no expert, so I can't help any further on the CV joint, but if you want the entire posting...here's the link (hope it works...if not: www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/117-cv-boby Kimo - Main Forum
Instructions for seat removal and diagram for disconnecting the electrical wire: You may have to jiggle the wire a bit to remove, but as long as you release the securing tab, you should be fine. Warning: last time I did this I got the dreaded airbag warning light, after I reconnected the wire. Make sure you have a buddy nearby that has a Durametric cable to reset the warning light; else tby Kimo - Main Forum
and I would prefer to use my own carbon maston wing, as an option to the package. BTW - TP2 is still going strong! Alohaby Kimo - Main Forum
I have all the material to do my pockets as well; I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. You just inspired me, so I'll definitely go at it this month. Thanks for the photos...quite a contrast, but the most important part is that you're happy with it. Good job...by Kimo - Main Forum
if you decide to keep your friend a little longer, since the transmission will already be out, you will save on labor to upgrade your IMS bearing (even though your engine currently runs strong); also check on the engine mount to make sure it is in working order...Good Luckby Kimo - Main Forum
but my mechanic switched the wheels and the whomp sound switched to the other side, hence not a bearing problem...more like "cupping" on the tire from uneven wear or taking turns too aggressively. As Pedro stated..."Occam's Razor." If the sound doesn't switch over, then seriously consider replacing your wheel bearing. Good luckby Kimo - Main Forum
I purschased a new fuel cap because the rubber seal on my old one looked very old and dry...whistle didn't go away. Next, I placed a 1/2 inch electrical tape partially over the vent hole near the fuel area cover hinge...whistle is gone. So, it's likely one of the evap valves or the vent tube is kinked...no CEL, so maybe it's something minor, hopefully. I'll take a look at the evap area closelyby Kimo - Main Forum
One guy posted that the tube you're talking about was pinched and was not located in the proper area...after the fix - no more whistling.by Kimo - Main Forum
Try the following thread, but there are many others. 986Forum whistling sound thread I have not tried to replace the gas cap or relief vavle yet, or even covering up the 1/2" hole near the gas housing lid hinge to see if it is indeed a valve failure. It sounds like 986 whistles (aside from the AOS whistle symptom) comes from the gas filler area; 987 owners suffer from side-mirror whistles. Iby Kimo - Main Forum
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Aloha All I just competed this MOD and thought I would share since I don't think it's been covered on this board; it's been covered a few times on other boards. I've always thought that Porsche should have outfitted our 986 Key FOB light with an LED instead of the incandescent bulb that hardly ever works or too dim. Here's the original Key FOB (non-remote), and imagine that it doesn't workby Kimo - Main Forum
my dealer mounted Kumhos on my Boxster...no issues. That said, I once let the MB dealership (dealer is both MB and Porsche) mount my tires and they ruined my wheels with dings....lesson learned...no before photos. I know the Porsche mechanics take greater care of the P-cars...most own one themselves so they have a great appreciation and care. Best of luck...by Kimo - Main Forum
the commentator stated that what she did was based on her open-wheel experience and taking her hands off the wheel before the crash prevented possible injury to her hands/wrist, especially when something fast and violent changes the steering links and gets translated to the wheel and anything connected to it, all in a flash.by Kimo - Main Forum
another Boarder recommended his shop with high marks as well. This Boader helped me out with my airbag warning light reset, for free, so I'm sure his kudos to Taylor is sound and from experience.by Kimo - Main Forum
it's a whomp...whomp...whomp noise that gets worse with speed. I originally thought it was my tires too, since I haven't balanced my wheels in a while and the odd winter temps played havoc on tire pressures. In the end, I read several boards and some boarders with the same issue said their wheel bearing was the issue, i.e. worn wheel bearings. Since my problem was obviously the driver's frontby Kimo - Main Forum
Bob - really appreciate your feedback on that Indy. I've considered going there as an alternative to the rip-off prices at the dealerships in DC. I've also pondered on the IMS upgrade...thanks for the info.by Kimo - Main Forum
The only difference between the S and base mufflers are the exhaust openings. One has dual pipes and the other does not, everything else remains the same, assuming the S-muffler you're buying is for the same model year group (2000-2004). I went back to my original muffler because I like the sound better...by Kimo - Main Forum
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Where did you get that plug or how did you make one? Should I just pinch it off? Thanks, again, for you many innovations...CEL worry-free from your TP2 Kit. Aloha, Kimoby Kimo - Main Forum
I've recently browsed through Mr. Raby's webite (Flat 6...) and the site shows several options for our Boxsters from 1997-2007, from 240HP to 450HP. Supposedly, the 450HP upgrade can apply to all Boxster models from 1997-2007, with a caveat that it's not street legal, of course. I'm not affiliated with Mr. Raby at all, but wanted to put this info out, in case someone here has the clams to actuaby Kimo - Main Forum
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I appreciate you and your son meeting me today and helping out someone in need. Driving your Cayenne S was a treat..thanks for letting me have that experience. I may purchase one for the winters in DC. Enjoy the wine and cigars... Aloha/Kimoby Kimo - Main Forum
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