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Marc/others - thanks This is resolved. All for a small fortune$$, but resolved. Dealer replaced the pistol lock mechanical part and that did the trick (supposedly they were able to do that without taking the dash/gauge cluster off). The lock cylinder was not changed out. Side note - think it was here, someone was asking me if I heard the "click" or "clunk" type sound when I removed the key.by bb1 - Main Forum
Hey folks - I finally took my car into the dealer for this (recap - 2000 Boxster - key was getting harder and harder to turn, esp. if key not turned for several hrs; I had already replaced the electrical ignition switch myself and that didn't fix, and with that disconnected - it was still hard to turn). Here's what they told me and I wanted to get some feedback before I pick it up. The serviceby bb1 - Main Forum
Hi folks - I posted on here recently about issues w/ my ignition key being hard to turn. Electrical switch replaced, didn't fix it. Next folks suggested I replace the pistol (mechanical) assembly/lock. To do that the tech articles inform you must remove the gauge cluster. I've followed the article instructions verbatim but am stuck. The 2 torx screws I got out no problem, as well as pulled tby bb1 - Main Forum
Is this product safe to use to try and lube it? WD-40 Specialist Water Resistant Silicone Lubricant Apologize for the basic question........just I don't want to find out after the fact that this can make matters worse. I want to try the lube option, and if that doesn't work then, yes, I'll move on to replacing the pistol mechanism.by bb1 - Main Forum
Hello Boxterra - what would you recommend to use as a lubricant?by bb1 - Main Forum
Hello again - I went ahead and removed the ignition lock cylinder. Below link has more photos of what I can see now of that ignition lock cylinder and the pistol mechanism. I tried to inspect the ignition lock cylinder - I don't see anything obviously wrong.......there is some lubricant you can see on the lower portion of it (farthest away from key).......and I can see at least a couple piecesby bb1 - Main Forum
Hello Pedro - just tried it today. I observed the exact same thing I noticed yesterday - so it's looking consistent so far. As to your question - I must say I had never really noticed (thru all years owning this car) the noise you are talking about when removing the key (I also don't really think I ever engage the steering wheel lock - always have the wheels straight when parked and don't turnby bb1 - Main Forum
Actually, after thinking some more on this and what I wrote, thought I'd better clarify..........I think I need to try this same test a couple more days when car is cold/etc......just to be sure I have a consistent result. And since it was hard to turn today w/ the electrical switch out of the loop (and even though it got better after 1st attempt).......I would actually lean towards the mechanicby bb1 - Main Forum
Hey Pedro/folks - I spent some quality time in the footwell of my car this morning. I have disconnected/removed the new (electrical) ignition switch (just to recap this was the more expensive OEM part# one). This time I removed the left vent panel and it was slightly better access. As soon as I did that, here's what I observed: Put the key in ignition and tried to turn it on (clockwise). Durby bb1 - Main Forum
Thanks Anker I have done that now. I found the part# for the ignition lock cylinder (tumbler). It's about $450 on pelicanparts. The steering lock assembly (pistol) is about $250. Is there any way to tell which of those in my case needs to be replaced (if not both)? Also, if you replace the ignition lock cylinder - doesn't that mean you have a new key...........which would imply it wouldn't wby bb1 - Main Forum
I've been doing more research on this. This post was helpful for me to explain more of the parts involved (save this was much older Porsche than mine) Is the ignition key "tumbler" the same thing as the "ignition lock cylinder"? Can that be bought online, or will only the dealer replace it? I suspect either I have to replace the entire "steering wheel lock assembly w/ ignition switch (w/o igby bb1 - Main Forum
Hello Pedro - thanks for replying --when I replaced the electrical portion, yes, I made sure it was aligned (just like the original piece). -> side note, the only possible difference is I had some trouble getting the electrical portion to sit 100% back like it was. I could only get 1 hand in there to work w/ due to the tight quarters, and I basically had 2 set screws that were to hold thatby bb1 - Main Forum
Thanks. Yes, the piece I replaced already is an electrical part (part# listed earlier). I agree it seems something mechanical that is causing it. From what I can gather that could be 2 things: 1) any mechanical stuff between the key receptacle itself (and including it) all the way down to the electrical piece I replaced (i.e. there is some stuff directly in between ---- and that stuff I haven'by bb1 - Main Forum
Hey folks - I know this is a tired thread so apologize in advance for posting. I'm hoping to get some guidance. Owner for last 15+yrs. Over the past few years I had noticed the ignition switch get harder to turn. Whenever this would happen, usually the way it would go is I'd only noticed it on the first startup of the day (car isn't driven that much - maybe once/wk). Subsequent turns of theby bb1 - Main Forum
Hi Grant, thanks. Got it. Yeah I haven't seen those problems yet. I will say this electrical portion piece which I had tried to reinstall, DOES, have a mechanical aspect to it as well. The inner portion of it turns (from the mechanical portion) what looks like a 1/4 turn only in 1 direction, and back to original point. I never saw any online instructions or advice about replacing the stuff bby bb1 - Main Forum
Hey folks Just had the PLEASURE of trying to contort myself around to install a replacement ignition switch. Had an issue and wanted to follow up w/ a basic question before proceeding: 1) what typically happens w/ the switch as it gets older? Mine is original to car and slowly over the last few years I'm noticing that it is sporadically hard to turn, but still will turn if enough pressure. Iby bb1 - Main Forum
Just went thru this ORDEAL on my 2000 Boxster today. Yeah it was EXTREMELY difficult to contort in there, see what i needed to see, and get the old one out. Almost gave up but someone got that much done. Unfortunately for me the part I ordered from Pelican (4A0-905-849-B-M56) didn't work - the existing part turned out to be slightly different shaped and color and diff part#4B0-905-849.........by bb1 - Main Forum
Hello fellow Boxster owners I have a 2000 Boxster w/ the 2nd top on it (replaced about 2005). There is a small crack on the edge of the window - probably 1" in length total. Pretty minor. It's so close to the edge it's hardly noticeable. I want to repair it myself if possible using some kit - just to avoid rain getting in/etc. Sure others have gone thru this and hoping you can share what youby bb1 - Main Forum
I take it these are only being used in the event of a major pothole/etc when the shock is completely compressed. But in normal driving, these rubber stops would not be getting compressed any. Is that correct? I checked all 4 of my shocks and this rubber stop is either missing or just a scan remnant of it left.by bb1 - Main Forum
Folks if I may, have an update. And I'm going to combine this info for this post as well as related post --- all here. Today I jacked the rear (one side at a time) of the car up to get the back tire off the ground. Then I just grab onto the wheel w/ both hands. First tried to move the wheel from side to side. No movement, no noises. Next I tried to move the wheel up and down. I didn't heaby bb1 - Main Forum
Grant - thanks for clearing that upby bb1 - Main Forum
Hi folks Regarding this part (rear shock bump stops) Where is this "bump stop" shown in the following schematic? I can see a "stop plate" (#5) but nothing that is called a bump stop. Thanksby bb1 - Main Forum
Helpful post Ankur. I'll let folks know here how it goes once I get around to getting this done.by bb1 - Main Forum
Thanks for the info here guys. Just so it's clear, my mechanic looked underneath my car and inspected all the components as much as he could, and they didn't find anything obviously wrong or loose. Someone shared this w/ me just now (item#8 is of particular interest to me) --- Can you tell me what the actual part# would be for item#8? So I can relay this to my mechanic. Does someone have aby bb1 - Main Forum
Hello folks - I have probably one of the older P cars on this forum - 2000 Boxster (base) ---- I'm trying to narrow in on the parts# I'd need to order based on some research I've done (ultimately w/ this link below) [986forum.com] This noise issue (clunking noise over small bumps at low speed - whether coasting or in gear) I've had for several years now (getting worse over time) w/ this car andby bb1 - Main Forum
Hey folks - someone here suggested using the Techron Fuel System cleaner and then seeing if the code goes away. So should I "clear" the code w/ my code reader (before putting in the fuel cleaner stuff and running thru a tank of it)? I saw that was an option available but wasn't 100% sure it's advisable to do that, though it seems like it is a pretty benign thing to do. Thanksby bb1 - Main Forum