What's the sign of the cats? I've had...

In case the image isn't clear: CEL, brake wear, spoiler.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2013 02:09PM by Laz. (view changes)

I occasionally get them for warm-up efficiency on my 203k mile old cats. My solution: reset it. Hasn't had a problem all summer (duh: its warm).

So chin up. Brakes are easy and cheap. Spoiler worries me more...i think we discussed that the mechanicals seem fine...

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com

weeks while it remained off almost all summer.

Been nursing this weak catalytic converter now for years.

I think the spoiler is a switch problem. Though why I think this I'm not sure. Raising/lowering the spoiler using the manual switch has the thing working ok and sounding ok going up or coming down but the light comes on and when I pull in to stop/park the car the thing is still up. I can turn off the engine and then turn the ignition key off and turn it back on and lower the spoiler with the switch. I haven't talked to a tech about this yet.

I've done the brakes in the past, just not looking forward to doing them again right now. Very busy with family matters -- elderly parents -- and have no spare time at all. But I will order the parts and maybe just make the time. The brake warning light comes on almost every time I use the car and I find that annoying.

anyhoo....
Brakes are stupidly easy. I do them track-side all the time. The only moderately complex thing is a track that you gave me, so i assume you now it ( fully extend - carefully - clean the pistons well so they don't seize up).

Grant

Grant

gee-lenahan-at-gee-mail-dot-com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2013 07:05PM by grant. (view changes)

engine light on for a while. P0039 and something else I think. First crank in the morning, starts perfect, then after 5 secs or so, starts hunting for idle, and then a few popping noises from, I assume, the cats. Works itself out after about 5 secs or so. Runs fine after that. 83K

[upload.wikimedia.org]

control of a turbo-/super-charged engine.

"Popping noises" (aka backfires) from the converters (exhaust) is a sign of a rich mixture and could be one ore more leaking injectors.

don't want to steal the thread, but I too get the spoiler light all the time, however, I manually lower the spoiler, the light stays on, then drive off and it goes away? What can that be - again, not trying to steal the thread, must throwing it out there and maybe all of us that have the same issue can get an answer.

thanks,

Fern

Without a wiring diagram I can offer only a WAG as to what's going on. If I have the time Sunday I'll dig through the 64lbs of manuals I have on my Boxster and see what I can deduce from the wiring diagrams.

I can also send an email or drop by the dealer and speak to a tech who might offer some ideas as to what is going on.

My WAG: As I think I mentioned in one of my posts the spoiler goes up and down ok manually and goes up when it is supposed to and today came down when it was supposed to. So my thinking is the raising/lowering hardware is ok. This puts the likely cause as a marginal electrical contact or switch. I've worn out a few other switches on the car over the years: clutch interlock switch, brake light switch, a couple of door lock switches, so the spoiler switches being worn out would not surprise me.

The tech offered that my car's symptoms read like a relay (there are two: one for raising, one for lowering). If not a relay then it is the spoiler drive hardware. Cheaper than the Turbo spoiler drive hardware. Given this cost me ~$2K I hope it is way cheaper!