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I just replaced my < 32K original axles with new on both sides. If anyone plans to replace theirs, you could reboot/repack these and change one inner CV and have a spare set ready to go. (the right rear inner CV boot was torn wide open for several months and must be replaced; I had planned to replace both inner CVs for good measure, but decided to go the full replace route at last minute vsby dallas01s - Parts for Sale
the shop claims that he's never seen a boxster have a pull with the alignment setup that he dialed in, so if true, my vehicle is an outlier. Also FYI, my 7.4 and 7.2deg caster readings are both slightly beyond the factory 8deg +/- .5deg. (I had a dealer shoot me the factory settings list...)by dallas01s - Main Forum
That's what I thought as well. After some more research, what I'm seeing now and the previous setup makes sense - a difference in caster will generate a pull in the direction of the smaller positive caster (in my case the right), and a difference in camber will, all else being equal, pull in the direction of the more positive camber. (my left on original setup) So it does appear that there wasby dallas01s - Main Forum
Just had an alignment after my drive axle replacement and now have a slight pull to the right. Tech set all toe F/R to middle of range (.05 front, .09 rear) but camber was set to minus 1.8 deg rear L/R and minus 0.4 deg front L/R. (seems to be right at edge of range) Tech claims that the pull is due to the (unadjustable) caster which is currently 7.4 deg L and 7.2 deg R. Michelin Pilot Super Sby dallas01s - Main Forum
That was my thinking....the diagonal braces are substantial enough to be structural but the center plate is too thin/weak to be a brace. I'm puzzled as to why one can't reset the eccentric to matching location to maintain camber.....the entire eccentric adjustment range can't be more than a few degrees at the wheel, and one should be able to mark and return the eccentric bolt to within a few degby dallas01s - Main Forum
Thanks Marc....hard to believe that that thin piece of sheet metal has anything to do with alignment?! My thinking was that I marked, loosened, and then replaced the eccentric bolt to the same position all while in the air (supported by jack stands on the lifting points), so my assumption is that the alignment is OK. Certainly could be something I'm overlooking....but I'm with you in thinking iby dallas01s - Main Forum
Have been meaning to write up a few key points that I learned from my drive axle replacement job on a 2001 S a few weeks back. First a big thanks to Pedro for his great write-up, and several folks from the board for answering a few questions as I tackled this; it was of great help. Here are a few comments that others might find useful if they attempt this job themselves: - Not huge troubleby dallas01s - Main Forum
Best tires I've ever had as well.....18" on '01 986 S....just switched a few months back and they are as close to the perfect tire as I can imagine. Amazing that a tire without an "N" rating even works on a Boxster... :-) I am curious, however, what specifically they would envision changing (tread compound, sidewall, etc.) for an N-rated version and when this is slated (if ever). I'm sure theby dallas01s - Main Forum
I have the style similar to your first one....an OTC model. Not as thin on the fork as yours however. By the way, did you remove/loosen either the eccentric bolt or the bolt in the middle of control arm to trailing arm? Some write-ups claim that that helps, but I'd imagine you'll also need an alignment if the eccentric is moved....by dallas01s - Main Forum
OK on a whim I tried to loosen to ball joint nut w/o the T40 to counter-hold....and it didn't spin like the upper ball joint. So nut is off.....but now the OTC joint breaker tool won't fit in the tight space on the lower ball joint! Going to have to engineer something I think...unless better ideas out there...by dallas01s - Main Forum
Changing first drive axle and encountering an issue when trying to remove the lower control arm/ball joint at the wheel carrier. There is a T40 torx that is used to counter-hold when removing the ball joint nut.....this was easy to access on the tie arm higher on the wheel carrier. However, there is no room to insert my T40 bit on the lower control arm/ball joint - the drive axle is in the way.by dallas01s - Main Forum
Very low miles....about 32K. Have been very lucky so far with very little replacement items. Only oil changes, brake fluid flushes, and normal maintenance stuff. Original belt was a bit brittle but not cracking at 10 yrs! One window regulator. I have a feeling expansion tank and water pump are next....may even do them preventatively for peace of mind so that I don't have one fail out of townby dallas01s - Main Forum
Thanks folks for the recommendations....I stay away from HF and go Craftsman for most of my stuff. Couldn't find Pedro's original, but they have some other brands on Sears site. Will start after all the stuff arrives! (boots seem on backorder everywhere right now except for the $$ Porsche ones) Going with the GKN Loebro CV joints and boots for now. One last question: - did you folks reuseby dallas01s - Main Forum
question for Pedro....can you advise what brand and/or where to get that joint breaking tool in your CV Joint replacement write-up? I'm having second thoughts and might attempt this one myself....thanks!by dallas01s - Main Forum
I used a very small bit of Plastilube (anti-squel for back of brake pads on our BMWs) on the plastic air intake pipe, then put my hands INSIDE of the t-tube to get leverage, and it finally begrudgingly went in!by dallas01s - Main Forum
my guy said that new CV joint/boots and repacking was more than just putting in a new axle, which made sense as they take the axle out in either case. I got the same $900-ish price from local dealers, but places like Sunset and Suncoast source Porsche part for mid to upper $500's. Since mine is making noise (I mistook what must have been CV noise for another rattle, so it's been bad for at leasby dallas01s - Main Forum
As I mentioned in a previous post while doing AOS replacement, I discovered rear inner CV/boot torn/leaking to the point where either CV or entire axle will have to be replaced. I'm probably going to task this one out to a local indy with better setup for this job. I can get new complete axle assembly for $547. Replacement CV and boots considerably less on the parts side, but more labor to repby dallas01s - Main Forum
Thanks Grant....I completed this successfully but it was quite a PITA! I had more trouble getting the tube clamp pointing to outside of the car removed...couldn't find a good way to grasp it to release. As for the spring clamp on bottom of AOS, the spring clamp pliers did the job. Cutting the bellows is an alternative for those w/o the pliers. For reassembly, I just ordered a new spring clampby dallas01s - Main Forum
Hi Pedro; I have the same Sears Craftsman spring clamp tool shown in your instructions. Just cracked things open and haven't seen the bolts yet...not sure if I have the 10mm side bolts or 5mm top, but guessing the former. A bit more investigation in order and I can plot a route....suspect I'll be taking the rear wheel out as you suggest....by dallas01s - Main Forum
About to dive into my first AOS replacement and gathering the various special tools/parts. I've reviewed the several (& great...thanks all) posted instructions on line, but unclear if the '01 S is one that I'll have to engage from below, or as in Pedro's instructions, that I'll be able to do everything from above. Hoping for the latter....will be unbuttoning things later tonight to take a lby dallas01s - Main Forum
Alan, I will be very curious what you discover, as I have nearly identical sounding issue on my '01 Boxster S. (standard suspension) This is my 2nd vehicle and only 30K miles unbelievably. My sound is near right rear from best listening....everything feels tight (from driving perspective...have not had it unloaded), but as you said a "clunking" sound similar to a loose bolt or clamp. How manyby dallas01s - Main Forum
Kudos to those who have enabled our continued dialog here.....it's been a long break! (just as the choices of N-rated 18" tires for my '01 S continue to dwindle.....yikes!)by dallas01s - Main Forum