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holding the hub to the axle. Either 17mm allen or 20-something mm regular depending on the kit. Real Lobro is an allen (hex). (see part #9) (closer up) Grantby grant - Main Forum
and quite a little autoX and track. Which may be unfair.by grant - Main Forum
But its really, really easy. 1. raise car safely - i drive up shallow ramps with rear tires 2. do it warm so oil drains, but not hot enough to scald you 3. drain oil oil by removing drain plug - 8mm allen mostly centered in aluminum sump (center, rear) 4. remove oil filter, nearby, hanging down upside down, with your favorite filter wrench. I use a strap wrench 5. Filter is replacement element iby grant - Main Forum
which is considerably more difficult to get at and out as i recall. Lobro kits are $15-20, depending on where you get them, include a new axle bolt. The dealer achieves good margin, IMO. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Wow. If i get > 18k on the rears before they are *dead* i'm happy. Fronts 2x that. Grantby grant - Main Forum
But i typically get every mile i can out of them. A tire without tread is nto necessarily a bad tire in the dry. That is more a matter of heat cycling. So it comes down to how aware you are of their limitations. Wear marks are typically 2mm. Grantby grant - Main Forum
I don't like it when brakes act oddly at the track. Thanks for the advice. I'll order 8 and have them on hand (yes, actually 4 large and 4 small, right?) Grantby grant - Main Forum
* sticking int he front. I was getting taper wear as a result, and when i dug further, the pistons were not moving freely. Taking Marc's advice i cleaned them well, worked some brake fluid into the piston/dust boot area, moved them in and out while bathing them with brake fluid, and got them appearing to work well again. By working well, i mean that if i pushed in one piston, its mate came out cby grant - Main Forum
S4. That's the bi-turbo small V6. The MAF was fine, but the throttle body got fairly junked up and caused the fly-by-wire to go haywire. Apparently the butterfly, each time it returned to "rest", dragged a small amount of dust/dirt/etc with it until a ridge built up. Cant say exactly what happened but metering was off, and the stepper motor's position did not match the input signal, ergo it thby grant - Main Forum
as deposits bu8il on a hot wire, it reacts less linearly. Similarly, the throttle body - mostly the butterfly - can build up both dirt and carbon tracks, especially where the butterfly sweeps and comes to rest. This can interfere with its action. On fly by wire cars this can even cause - eventually - a "implausible throttle angle" error which means that the butterfly is not where the stepper motby grant - Main Forum
The MAF ( mass airflow sensor) sits in a protected (usually) part of the throttle body and measures the air so fuel can be metered accurately. Truth is, you clean the whole throttle body. You take it out, and basically spray MAF cleaner through it to get all the accumulated dirt, carbon etc buildup off both the inside, the moving part( the butterfly) and the hot-wire sensor. Crud accumulates onby grant - Main Forum
You can check the PS fluid. That's how you would get access to the MAF, but unless you are seeing a problem..... MAF cleaning is on my rainy day list. Just not above boring essentials.... Off to change my oil B4 mid ohio It will be a "fridge leftovers" mix of Syntec 10w40, M1 15w50 and edge 10w40 - i have about 2qts each of the first two. Love the marketing guys at Castrol. They now have edgby grant - Main Forum
. ah well. I expect i can use the car's own brake system to drive them most of the way out and do the rest manually. Where did you get the audi mounting brackets? Bira made one for a while. Grantby grant - Main Forum
1. wait. it will go away. Wat's left is not water, its old brake fluid 2. use, as i do, a little alcohol. that cleans better and evaps fastby grant - Main Forum
have you ever dis-assembled, cleaned, lubricated and used old parts if they look good? Either piston seal or dust boot? Wondering if i need to replace them all - or just have, say, one set of each size on hand. Grantby grant - Main Forum
first, you have to keep adding fluid. Its quite a pain if you truly flush (which takes about 800ml). More of a pain, IMO, than cleaning the thing with hot water which takes 5 minutes. Second, if you are too slow or careless, you can introduce air into the M/C or worse - into the ABS system. I did it once, and getting it out was horrific. What's the big deal cleaning it? Rinse with hot water, pby grant - Main Forum
And, either way, is it practical ( if the boots are not damaged) to remove the old boots and seal/gasket, clean everything, and re-install them? This is a proactive question - before i find myself stuck..... Mine are not big S brakes. 2004 2.7MT Grantby grant - Main Forum
That's ZF tranny. ZF says to service them every (80k?) kilometers. The fluid must be the right fluid - Porsche, Audi or Esso (spec is on ZF's site). Service means: 1. drop pan 2. clean 3. replace or clean filter 4. refill (its a bit of a pain, must have run through the gears off the floor and be up to temp, whcih you read with a scan tool or a remote IR gun (grant's cheating way)) You willby grant - Main Forum
Our region has tech sessions at a bunch of indies all the time - many of these people are the same ones fielding the questions in Panarama, etc. PCA is a great org that way. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Generally, a stalling car will throw tell-tale codes. If the MAF was off you might see mixture codes or "implausible reading" codes from the MAF. It could be an 02 sensor. Or a vacuum leak. Or a fuel pump. or..... So get some diagnosis first. Absent that, no one can tell you if a MAF or anything else is good or bad. Grantby grant - Main Forum
... or the next time you will push ages old brake fluid into the caliper where you want it the least!by grant - Main Forum
Once you drop the tranny and remove the flywheel ,they are right there, staring you in the face. Spitting oil at you even :-) Grantby grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
You yourself said that you mostly do short trips and this was your first extended "hot" trip. Over many trips, accumulated water and fuel is added to the oil, does nto burn/boil off, and replaces the slowly used oil. So when you go out and get the oil > 212 deg for a long period, it suddenly vanishes. What actually vanishes is sometimes the contaminants. Grantby grant - Main Forum