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n/tby grant - Main Forum
1. No more IMS. That must be good. 2. DFI - good for power, but does result in valve deposits (no mroe gas cleaning them) and oil contamination. Thsi is a known issue on all DFI engines - Audi, BMW, GM etc. But its the future. I strongly suspect they took thsi opportunity to address many of the issue that cropepd up in the M96. Most designers are itching top address the weaknesses of any designby grant - Main Forum
1. at higher speeds you are in higher gears and also likely traveling at more constant speeds ont he highway - this will lead to the positive correlation between speed and economy you show 2. if all the travel was highway, top gear, relatively constant speed, i would predict ( and have measured, but not graphed) an inverse correlation --- e.g.: constant travel, top gear 50 mph woudl be higher thaby grant - Main Forum
totally different. Its a big, heavy sedan/wagon. A broadsword to the porsche's scalpel. Capable of carrying stuff, as opposed to, well, not. I cant really compare them. IMO, its the most amazing driving wagon - ever. Grantby grant - Main Forum
40 weight is only required for high temp and pressures. You know that. Recommendations ,must meet all demands and therefore are compromises, or sometimes over-stated (which is what leads to stupid wide ranges and the use of extra VIIs). So i stand by it, but of course, i rally recommended a good 5w40 or 10w40 that meets ACEA A3. As i have said about 1M times. But frankly, i dont give a hoot aby grant - Main Forum
it means the shear breakdown under High Temperature and High Speed (HT/ HS) exceeds a certain threshold. that Threshold is ~ 3.6. 15w50 is 4.3 i believe. 10w40 is 4.0 0w40 is substantially less, even though it is "40". but seriously, for the street 5w30 is just as good! Under cold conditions and moderate driving, maybe better. Grantby grant - Main Forum
I use M1 or Castrol Edge /Syntek 10w40 on the track. Else i'd have lousy flow on the street, particularly in the winter. Which, as Marc just pointed out may be worse. All this talk of 15w50 started with pedro, in S. Fla, on track 50 days a year. For which 15w50 is purrfect. In fact, did you see my reply below? I even gave you the HTHS spec for m1 10w40 HM. Its quite good, significantly betterby grant - Main Forum
so that's consistent. Agree thicker is not better. Thicker is only better on wear during incidences of high heat and high pressure. At most other times it is in fact inferior! And we never talk about anti-foam, anti-corrosion, moisture and gas by-product contamination, buffering agents (per the previous acids), etc. Grantby grant - Main Forum
10w40 will actually be quite a bit thicker than 0w40. A quick glance at the spec sheets confirms this. The Ht/HS spec is also 4.0/3.57. What about 20w50 Castrol Syntec/Edge?by grant - Main Forum
Yes, but some pigs are more equal than others you see.......About 3 years back i went on a kick to read some classics. Doing so you find out why they are classics. Frankenstein. (the monster is the doctor, not the creature) A Tale of Two Cities (Dickens, yet engrossing!). Read Das Kapital too. Communists apparently have not. Wow. Boxsters to Orwell. Grantby grant - Main Forum
Mike - you can just use it Friday!by grant - Main Forum
Its fun to watch "perception vs. reality. I agree with Laz first of all. But what's most interesting is how public perception lags reality by a lot. Int he 70s and 80s the imports were derided for both perceived quality issues and due to jingoism. how many people heard about "Jap crap". note that is two separate judgements, both of which were wrong by then. Over time the Japanese brands came tby grant - Main Forum
- but i only use it at the track. Comes in a nice bag, decent accessories. I have nto used enough others to be able to comment on relative speed. Grantby grant - Main Forum
n/tby grant - Main Forum
absolutely nothing. Just dirty (really ugly actually) oil. After only 5,000 miles (but 5 track days thrown in) and 7 months. Grantby grant - Main Forum
find every 2 years or so. Not sure if it really helps. Have you bought the bentley manual? Not sure if it covers the top very well. It doesn't cover much very well, alas. Have you tried Pelican's how-to section? Or checked their book (101 boxster projects) You got an RMS "kit"? What's that? Or do you mean IMS kit. Grantby grant - Main Forum
The IMS issue is a bearing that supports one end of a shaft that down-gears the cams. If it fails, the motor is instantly, 100%, toast. There is no certainty on the failure rate. It is located behind the flywheel. Once you have the tranny and clutch out, its right there staring at you. A slightly tricky job requiring severla special tools, but no big deal for someone who does them regularly.by grant - Main Forum
i could see an argument that the wide range of say 5w50 or 0w40, even withe VIIs, being advantageous due to fast full flow and at least temporary protection at hgih speed/temp (until it shears). Just change frequently. But frankly, in our climates, 5w and even 10w is just fine. Grantby grant - Main Forum
you and i and marc are under no pressure to compromise wear to meet CAFE or European green regs. Porsche is. I believe people largely do what you incent them to do. Same with that 20k oil change interval that they quickly abandoned. Presumably because they realized it was failing miserably. Grantby grant - Main Forum
traditional oils cant meet the specs of even moderate ranges without VIIs. Along came synthetics, and they could meet traditional ranges, like 10w30, 20w50 without them. Great. technology improved, they could get wider ranges. Keep in mind that its a ratio - 10w40 and 20w50 are not nearly the same ratio, but they are the same range. And its in kinematic viscosity anyway. At the same time ( andby grant - Main Forum
i don't, not in this car. Nor a oil temp gauge either. Anyway, viscosity loss will only occur under severe circumstances. And (my guess) only be evident at very elevated temperatures. Yet the same shear (if it occurs) creates sludge components that are always there. As noted, its more theory than practical, except for track drivers and racers. <== this is important*** For 95% of us i wouldby grant - Main Forum
..but dont panic yet.by grant - Main Forum
They were not needed when synthetics were 5w30 or 10w40. Those ranges could be achieved with syntehtic stock and was one of the great advances. But when we go to 5w50 and 0w40 that changes. That's the point! Incidentally, VIIs (which are not one thing but a class of lubricant molecules) would be listed as synthetic stock. It is synthetic oil, its just a temperature -reactibng long chain polymerby grant - Main Forum
i dont think so.by grant - Main Forum
excessive exposure to contaminants which coat their catalytic material. Typically a lifetime of burning oil. Cat health is measured by taking an O2 reading before and after, an subtracting. So a bad O2 can cause this. I'm sure other things can too. Diagnose, diagnose, don't replace (yet) Grantby grant - Main Forum
Oil - easy. $60 oil at Wal-Mart and a $15 filter vs. whatever your dealer charges. You'll need ramps, a big catch bucket, a filter wrench, and a 8Mm allen extension. Takes less time than dropping the car off and picking it up, for me at least. brakes - also quite easy. Need jack stands, basic tools, brake cleaner (read marc's advice to me - then read it again) - pads are $100-125/set. You wontby grant - Main Forum
Its very difficult when facts are pitted against opinion. many people don't recognize the long-established trade offs laid down by chemistry. I'm not a CE, but several friends are, and formulate lubricants. The base oil determines the range that it will flow within the APIs bounds. Therefore, wide ranges, *as a proportion, not as a delta* are difficult to achieve. Enter Viscosity index improveby grant - Main Forum
and not long ago the military recomended 10w - for the arctic. So i would grab a large measure of salt. I've posted at length that no 0w40 stands up well at hgih temp, high speeds and heavy duty cycles, while many 5w40 and 10w40 do. So the comparison is not between two similar oils. Its the old story - one thin for the cold, one thick for the hot. Consider 0w40 as 0w30 (after shear) , and withby grant - Main Forum
of info on good indies is your local PCA region. They will likely be members, they may advertise, and lots of folks will know them, and others who are less active. Now, the PCA-active, racing oriented guys will not be the cheapest. But they will largely be good. Bear in mind for many tasks you dont need a porsche specialist, you just need a good honest shop. Grantby grant - Main Forum